Change element type in DS not working anymore

[ckramer]

We have DS pro+ 9.010. Program is now freezing up when trying to change a singleline to a column 1. It didn't used to, but lately even a simple singleline with a slight angled corner won't change. (I do set "use edges"). I've tried it with the 3D accelerator on and off. Does not seem to matter. Any thoughts as to why I am now having problems? Would a video card have any influence on this?? Had a couple of alerts about the card, but changed a setting on the computer and that went away and everything else worked fine since then. In fact, I always wondered why everyone had the circle and x for input and exit, but I could never find a setting to change that 'til I made the adjustment on the computer, now I do too. ?????, love using this feature in DS, so would like to remedy this problem if at all possible.

[Greenwing]

Try changing to a single line center.
then change that to a column 1,

don't think the parameters are there in a walk to create a column 1 or 2

this works.

[Juli in Kona]

I have the highest level of DS and have no trouble changing a single line to a column 1 or 2.But I have a question: What exactly did you mean when you said, " I always wondered why everyone had the circle and x for input and exit." What did you see if not X and 0?

Another question: Is there an automatic way of exchanging the X and 0. I often do this and want a one click method instead of moving the X out of the way, moving the 0 where the X was, then moving the X to where the 0 was. Very tedious!

[ckramer]

To answer Jerome, it is a singleline center that I am trying to convert to a column 1. Melco's answer, as usual, must have gotten corrupted, re-install DS.
Juli--- until I changed the computer setting from 16 bit to a 32 bit, I had a black rounded arrowhead and a pointed arrowhead of sorts. After the change they became the red and green x & o! I've had the black ones since day one of using DS! I hope you get an answer to your question of a quick shortcut to swap the "X & O" . I agree, it is a bit tedious.

[Greenwing]

sorry about that I miss read for some reason read it that you were trying to convert a walk... it was early....

as for Juli you know about auto sequence it can do a lot for your in and out point sequencing. I can not think of once that just swapping the in & out would have done much good at least for me....

[ckramer]

No problem Jerome, I get the "early" thing Another question: I found this absolutely beautiful, intricate design and I would like to take it apart and look at how it was done, HOWEVER, it only comes in dst or exp formats. I know when changing these formats to wireframe things can become distorted and broken into many "extra" elements. Would one or the other of these formats be better to choose in order to see how this design was done? How much info can I gain from this being so peiced up after the wireframe change. It has a great amount of blending and stitch directions to create the design and I'd really like to see how they went about it. I've always looked at designs that were cnd. or ofm's

[Greenwing]

Your right wire frame can confuse things,
I frankly use a program called BuzzEdit when I want to disassemble a design that is not OFM. the program does not use OFM darn but it makes it easy to disassemble and see how things are done. It is a stitch based editor and can work with dst, exp almost all home formats.
just a thought.

[ckramer]

Thanks Jerome! I will give that a try! Hats off to you once again!

[Juli in Kona]

I use DS all the time to convert, disassemble and take apart dst files. First you wireframe it. You don't have to do the whole design if you don't want to. Sometimes I just want to fix one small (or large) part. Then the trick is to delete all the run stitches and underlay and put together all the reasonable parts. For instance, a flower petal: after deleting all run stitches and underlays (which usually end up as run stitches or columns), you then combine all the remaining parts of the one petal into one part. Now you can assign underlay, comp , the in and out points, etc.

Once you get rid of all the unnecessary parts and do the combines on each reasonable area (each leaf separately, each petal separately, the center of the flower separately, just like you would be doing it when digitizing from scratch) you end up with a design that looks like you digitized it by hand. But now it is all in ofm and you can manipulate each and every piece and control everything.

My friend who has a 6 head and uses dst files is sending her files to me to "fix". Some of them are so screwed up, it is just pathetic! She had one simple design of a 2 color outline design of a flower and leaves. But when she sewed it out, it looked way too skimpy. I did my magic on it, made the run stitches into a 3 bean and lengthened the stitch length and it not only sews well, but looks much better. And I could, at the same time, make the whole design bigger or smaller. Can't do that well if it is still in dst. I save my final version in ofm so I can manipulate it later if I wanted, and also save it in dst and sent to her.

Juli in Kona

[ckramer]

Thanks Juli. It just gets to be quite a job cleaning everything up after changing to wireframe, so was hoping perhaps a program out there might keep things in tack a bit better, lettering seems to be the worst for actual distortion of shapes, but I guess I was wishing for the moon, hey, it can't hurt to try!

[Marcelle]

Change Element type in DS not working

Juli,
Do you find using CND format any help when taking apart a design not in OFM? I'm not sure what machine uses CND but some people request that format. Any thoughts?

Marcelle

http://embroideryavenue.com/

http://embroidery.gotop100.com/

I use DS all the time to convert, disassemble and take apart dst files. First you wireframe it. You don't have to do the whole design if you don't want to. Sometimes I just want to fix one small (or large) part. Then the trick is to delete all the run stitches and underlay and put together all the reasonable parts. For instance, a flower petal: after deleting all run stitches and underlays (which usually end up as run stitches or columns), you then combine all the remaining parts of the one petal into one part. Now you can assign underlay, comp , the in and out points, etc.

Once you get rid of all the unnecessary parts and do the combines on each reasonable area (each leaf separately, each petal separately, the center of the flower separately, just like you would be doing it when digitizing from scratch) you end up with a design that looks like you digitized it by hand. But now it is all in ofm and you can manipulate each and every piece and control everything.

My friend who has a 6 head and uses dst files is sending her files to me to "fix". Some of them are so screwed up, it is just pathetic! She had one simple design of a 2 color outline design of a flower and leaves. But when she sewed it out, it looked way too skimpy. I did my magic on it, made the run stitches into a 3 bean and lengthened the stitch length and it not only sews well, but looks much better. And I could, at the same time, make the whole design bigger or smaller. Can't do that well if it is still in dst. I save my final version in ofm so I can manipulate it later if I wanted, and also save it in dst and sent to her.

Juli in Kona

[Juli in Kona]

I never order CND, primarily because it doesn't hold colors. I always choose pes.

[Mama Kass]

99.9% of our work is from our own designs, so I've rarely ordered a stock design. When I have done so, I've ordered EXP (since OFM is never an option). What are the pros and cons of the different formats you folks are referring to?

[Marcelle]

Change element type in DS not working anymore

I also buy pes but if cnd is available I get that. It seems to be a much scaled down version of wire frame that is easier to edit without all the junk in wire frame. There is some junk but much less.

The main reason I buy pes though is that I also have a Brother 6700D and ULT 2001. Most of the pes I buy don't have the correct colors anyway unless the digitizer saved them using the Brother pes color palette.

I am probably one of the few that does sell ofm format designs and I do have people buy ofm. It seems to be mostly embroidery shops buying the ofm format though.

The 'save as' list shows the cnd format to be 'Melco Condensed File'. I am just not sure what that means exactly as it is compared to ofm.

Marcelle

http://embroideryavenue.com/

http://embroidery.gotop100.com/

I never order CND, primarily because it doesn't hold colors. I always choose pes.

[Mama Kass]

Here is a posting on the differences between the formats from 2005. I guess this sites search engine doesn't go back that far, but I found this by Googling the subject.

http://www.freelists.org/post/amayausers/CND-vs-OFM-vs-EXP-formats

...and here's a bit from Melco:

http://www.melco-service.com/Sizer/FAQ.htm