eps files and converting

[Yan]

I have a question about designshop 9 pro. I have it and am not much of a digitizer. I usually have someone else do my stuff. I am well versed in Corel and eps files. I have been trying to embroider some eps converted files. I know it is probably better or at least quicker to trim out eps files so that you are not stiching out objects on top of objects. For example... If I have an eps file of a square with a circle on top of it I would be stiching a lot more if I don't first "trim" out the eps file so that there is a large hole under the circle. I get that and its easy to do. However, every time i convert the file to embroidery the circle never really takes up the hole space. Is it better to just embroider the circle on top of the hole square without the cut out? If not, what is the simple step to make the circle attractively sitting on top of the square. On you tube with the link below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qh9D2PjHaKE&feature=relmfu

is a great demonstration of designshop v9 taking an eps file of donald duck and turning it into stiches. Is it better to stitch it one thing completely on top of another like he does? I realize that pull comp plays an important roll but need a little help/advise and or any video link that might really explain it.

thanks in advance!

Yan

[MJ]

I mostly don't embroider one shape on top of another without "cutting out" the top shape out of the bottom shape. Just make sure you have enough pull comp on the top shape to fill in any blank space that might occur around the edges. Or while you're converting the .eps, increase the amount of flatten overlap.

[Yan]

Does having enough pull comp on the top shape mean the same thing as increasing the amount of flatten overlap? Should I only increase the amount of flatten overlap on the top shapes or the bottom ones too?

thanks again,

Yan

[MJ]

I'm not a super expert, but I usually do the flatten overlap on both items.
And actually I'd like to hear from the more experienced members of the group if flatten overlap and pull comp have the same effects? I've always wondered that myself. I usually just play with the numbers until it looks good.

[Greenwing]

Flatten overlap will bring your underlay out with it Pull compinsation will not.
I have found that when you overlay design elements an edge walk at 4 or 5 pts works to keep the two from blending at the points stitch directions are similar. (great tip I got years ago from Joyce Jagger The Embroidery Coach)
But your over thinking this the areas should OVERLAP not just a point or two about 1/8" +
trying to get it to barely kiss is putting all the needle points in the same area, and this can cause problems.

[Yan]

Jerome, It sounds like flatten overlap is a good way to go with about 1/8" overlap at least along with an edge walk of 4 or 5 points. Does this also work for more complex shapes? - Have a 1/8" flaten overlap with the overlap on the complex shapes?

How about lettering? At what point does one decide to either place the lettering on top of an embroidered area or "cut" into the area - dealing with the same stuff as mentioned above and trying to increase the overlap?

Yan

[Greenwing]

most lettering I do without a hole THAT IS IF THE LETTERING is not big enough to be a large element of the design.
There is no actual right answer, you just have to work every design on an individual basis.
what works on one may not work on another.

[Marcelle]

My results have been that when converting eps or wmf files if 'flatten' is checked it automatically removes all but the amount of overlap specified in the block by the user.

If 'flatten' is not checked the entire segments will be converted to stitches.

[MJ]

Marcelle,
I'm not sure what you mean? Can you give an example?

[Marcelle]

Based on the example given in the top post about the square and partially overlapped by a circle here's what happens for me using 'flatten' checked and maybe a 4 setting in the overlap block.

If I select the 2 objects (square and circle) and click convert, the 2 objects will be converted to whatever stitches I selected. Let's say a fill for this. The 2 stitch objects I would get would be the square not a square anymore because the portion of the square that was under the circle would have been automatically removed except for the small amount (4) of overlap I had specified. The circle would be a full circle though because it was on top.

Only the objects that had parts under other objects are affected by the 'flatten' removal selection.

I hope this is making a little more sense. I don't really know if this is how it is supposed to be used because I just experimented with it until I found that I could get good results using it this way.

I hope some of the experts will provide more information for you and anyone else interested. There may be a lot of other things this convert/flatten is used for and I just haven't discovered them yet.

[Yan]

Marcelle, I did not realize that the conversion would create the hole automatically. I thought I had to do that in Corel and bring in the eps file with the hole already done. Thank you. I noticed that you used 4 as an overlap number. I had tried up to .4 and that did not seem to help that much. So, am I correct in that you converted the entire graphic with the overlap of four and not point four. I tried it will four and it filled the gaps up much better.

I also notice that whenever I do a circle it never ends up being a circle. Its always oblong to some point. That also tends to help create gaps where stiching should take place. What settings on say a tshirt should promote a good circle from withing the amaya os/settings?

Thanks for all the great responses so far!

[Marcelle]

I don't use .4 it is 4 and I have also used 5 in come cases. If 4 or 5 is not enough just experiment until you find a setting you like for the particular design. If some parts don't overlap the same I experiment with changing stitch direction which sometimes helps. If an object still doesn't overlap properly I just manually move the part of the object that needs more overlap.

I can't really help with your circle question. There are some things to check though. Are you sure it was an exact circle at the beginning? Try adjusting stitch direction. Stabilizer might be the issue. For t-shirts I like a sticky stabilizer so that nothing moves.

I hope some of the experts will be able to help you with your circle question.

[Juli in Kona]

The circles turning out to be ovals is a "Push and Pull" problem. So stitch direction and pull comp is the answer.

[Yan]

Juli, any chance you can email me a plain old circle, perahs 2" across or so with the correct settings? Anything would really help.

thanks everyone for all your answers so far!!!

Yan

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