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I was going to say the same as Rod- 1/4" and even that can cause trouble on hats. I just did 36 beanies with a satin stitch and could not figure out how to change it to whatever makes a 'simulated' satin stitch in designshop-because at 1/4" on beanies (wide stretchy material) it just didn't look good and looped like crazy.
Without solvy it was terrible.
Going around corners (capital S and P in block) it really left gaps at 4.2 density. Any changes and thread breaks like crazy.
1/4" [6mm] is a good number to remember when it comes to max. satin stitch width. This doesn't mean that at times it won't be necessary to go a bit wider but try to keep to 1/4" or less as much as possible.
Creating satin stitches wider than 1/4" will 1) put extra demand on the machine while stitching 2) create embroidery which is more susceptable to loose stitching / snags 3) often mean more pull on the material.
If satin stitches become too wide, they will be converted to jump stitches by the software ... and stitches a series of jump stitch is not a pleasant process for a machine.
Roland, to find the "simulated " satin stitch column you mentioned.....it is actually a series of satin stitch columns and small fill stitch areas called....."Auto-split".
Select the satin stitch column in the project tree, go to Properties and then Column and find the check box labeled Auto-split. You can change the width of the columns to fit the look that you want ....works great.....
You can also take any existing complex fill, change the stitch type to "Satin" , go to Column" in Properties and auto split them as well....makes interesting sails on sailboats, flashlite beams, ruffled dresses....let your imagination run wild.....!!
The Amaya does not have a Jump Stitch Solenoid. Your statement about wider stitches putting a bigger demand on the machine or being unpleasant for a machine does not apply here. (I assume you are stating this about machines with a jump stitch solenoid.) Most machines with a jump stitch solenoid use at least a stitch length of 1/2" before turning stitches to jumps. This figure can be different depending on machines. Older Melco machines used 127 points which is 1/2", Tajima uses 121 points, I am not sure about others. The Amaya just slows down as the stitch gets longer to allow the time needed to make the move, and does this without the use of a jump stitch solenoid and with a standard cruising speed of 1200 SPM. Your statements about the machine are true for older technology, not the Amaya.
Your statements about the longer the satin stitch the more prone to pull and snagging is true no matter what machine. But, as the Amaya feeds the thread to the embroidery, and does not pull it as in conventional machines, the overall tensions are lower thus allowing for longer satin stitches that do not pull and pucker the garment as much.
Roland - I have to echo Rod's comments about the auto-split.
I do a lot of embroidering on blankets and throws for one customer and most of the letters are about 1.25 to 1.75 inches tall. We use the Roman Block font.
On the first few I did about 18 months ago, I was concerned about the stitches pulling out. I read about the auto-split function and used it mainly to CYA so that I didn't get complaints about stitches getting snagged.
A week later the customer calls me to say he really likes the "new font" I've been putting on the throws and that I should use it going forward. Go figure - it's the same font just using auto-split which gives it a much different look.
Try it with different variables and like Rod said, you can get some pretty neat effects.
Thanks Tom and Rod...I knew it was in there someplace and couldn't find it.
Will make a big difference on the beanies and I'll try it on some other things with large stitches.
And, when we first got the amaya and I didn't know anybetter-
I had satin stitches over 1" in length...nothing stopped it from trying to sew it out but you'd swear the machine was going to fall over it was shaking so bad...
Roland
You might try a trick we learned recently, when doing fleece, beanies or christmas stocking fluffy fake fur; lay down a very light density complex fill background (same color as the garment or white) then do your normal design over that. That way you do not need to worry about the design falling between the fabric.
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I do the same thing. I duplicate the problem letter(s) that don't do well with satin stitching, convert them to column fills at a density of 5 to 10 depending on the material, then put a satin stich on top. Holds great, looks great, no worries about materiel poking through.
I did not know about the "auto-split" function. Can't wait to try that. Thanks for the tip.
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