stockings

[Fabrications]

We have the slimline clamping system for our XT machines in the 3.5x5.5" size and the 6.5x5" size. Neither of these will work on the stockings a customer brought in. The narrow one is too narrow, the larger one is too wide and can't get the stocking on the machine around the bobbin area.

What else can we use to get the job done?

[Gabi Kat]

Last year I used the square 7" butting the fabric to one side while the other 3 were "hooped". this work, however to improve I would use tape or a sticky backing to secure the "free side" to insure stablility.

Have you ever worked with the 17x11 wood hoop? any tricks to getting a taught/firm hooping with 2 layers, I'm appliqueing on a sports jersey.

Gabi, in Tucson
katemb2007@hotmail,com
520-260-6650

[signman]

If you have a roll of adhesive backing, cut it into 3/4" strips the full width of the 'roll'. Take your hoops (wood and plastic) and peel the backing off, then start wrapping like a tennis racquet handle, at a diagonal to cover the 'outside' hoop all the way around. Don't overlap it-just butt it up as it goes around or leave a little space. On the 'top' hop just stick the backing around the outside of the hoop -that's all you need. Loosen up the screw to compensate and try hooping how-you should see the material 'gripped' pretty good and it will stay in place. I hoop as snug as I can get, then reach around to the back and tighten up the screw more anyways-anything I use the bigger hoops on is usually heavy and will pop the hoop right apart while sewing.

[v-embroidery]

Will this method prevent hoop burn on satin material?

[signman]

Hoop 'burn' isn't any damage to the material. All a 'hoop burn' does is 'compact' the material where the hoop has compressed it. You see a shiny burn mark but you are really only looking at the reflection of compressed fiber! Any material you can steam-a simple hand steamer 'removes' the burn simply by expanding the fibers back up. If you can't wet the material, grab it in two hands, and 'scrub' it together-like cleaning a washcloth...and the material itself will 'raise the nap' back to where it was. We do it all the time and even on an antique satin table cover the mark was gone in seconds. you haven't 'burned' the material or permanently marked it-you have just compressed the visible top layer.

[Gabi Kat]

I have found on knits, a quick sprits of spray starch will "puff" the fabric, the ring burn disapears. Haven't tried it on other fabrics.

Gabi
in Tucson

[Rod or Sharon]

New fabric has "sizing" in it. A finish that is put into the fabric. When we hoop a garment we can sometimes "smash" that sizing. Several ways remove the ring is to steam the fabric, spritz it with water and rub the fabric with another area of that fabric to redistribute the sizing, or the way I do it is simply purchase a can of "Magic Sizing" in the store by the spray starches and give the area a quick spray around the ring. Wrapping your hoops with ribbon or tape will help avoid the hoop burn. I wrap my hoops with ribbon when embroidering wedding gowns because I don't want to get the satin fabric wet or it will water spot. Also hoop the garment loosly then tighten after it is in the hoop and loosten before it is removed from the hoop.
Sharon