TOWEL FUZZ IN BOBBIN CASE

[TN Thom]

Hi all. I'm doing a bunch of towels for a bowling tournament and am having problems with towel fuzz getting in the bobbin case and causing thread breaks. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to stop this? I have run the towels through the drier numerous times before doing them but still get fuzz in the bobbin casing. Would putting a layer of solvy on the bottom with the tearaway backing help stop this problem? Very open to suggestions here. Thanks for the help in advance.

[Barbara Bunker]

I always use a couple layers of Solvy AS the backing on towels, as well as a layer on top.
Barb

[djames]

I use a ball point needle for towels. Also make sure that you don't have any burs on your needle point, as this will push some of the towel down into the case.
Debbie

[Aaron]

Its probably too late now but I order Sanmar's microfiber towels whenever possible. They don't put off as much debris to get in the bobbin case.

On the terry towels blow out the boobbin area with canned air every few towels and make sure the bobbin area is oiled well. You could try to slide some wax paper under the towel to form a barrier between the towel and the babbin area to prevent some of it from coming through.

Are you sure its the debris causing the breaks and not the design. Did you beef up your columns for towels? We have sewn lots of terry towels and don't get breaks from the debris in the bobbin case even when it gets pretty full in there.

[TN Thom]

Aaron. I did beef up the columns for the towels, I have decreased the columns for the towels. The design sews out just fine on the polos and t-shirts without a hitch, but I seem to get a lot of fuzz when doing towels and it gets inside the bobbin case and causes bobbin thread breaks. No getting thread breaks on the top thread, only the bobbin and just when doing this design on towels.

[Hugo Torbidoni]

Ok, silly question. Are you getting real bobbin breaks or false bobbin breaks?
What about pressor foot height? Towels can be deceiving. Try setting the pressor foot a step lower than normal.
Also are the hoop arms pressing the garment against the needle plate to tightly,making the garment look bowed as it passes over the needle plate?

I have a customer in VA That has 2 amaya xt's, 1 amaya ,and an Emt10t. 90% of her work is monogram towels. She blows out the rotary hook/bobbin area every 2 to 3 runs (on all the machines). The lint from the towels accumalates very quickly. and clogg up the pigtail,get under the tension spring,get packed in the rotary hook and knives pretty quickly.

Also, oiling should be done after the bobbin and rotary hook are cleaned. I know, DUH! but you won't believe how many people oil the hook and bobbin case but don't bother cleaning it first.

Hugo Torbidoni
Melco Tech

[cbireley]

I have just started using a topping on my towels called "Vylene". That seems to help a lot on the department of cutting down fuzz. I have used a heavy duty solvy (that I bought by mistake) for the backs of my towels, as well. Both need to be rinsed and then dried, however, so if you have a big order of towels, you wouldn't want to have to do that.

[Barbara Bunker]

Since towels are woven, they're pretty stable on their own. If you use regular Solvy, even two layers of it, you won't have to wash the stabilizer out of the towels when you're finished with the embroidery.

Barb

[flebow]

Vylene aka Vilene is a big misnomer

Vilene refers to a whole product line from a company called Freudenberg Nonwovens
They were the company that originally developed the water soluble fibrous stabilizer - you call Vilene - they called D102

It has since been reproduced by a few Asian factories - with more density and silicone added for needle glide - We call the product- washaway - aka Wet N Gone, Auqua Magic, Aqua Mesh
It was originally developed and modified specifically for free standing lace

I do NOT suggest that you use this as a topping as it is a bit too fibrous As Barbara said above-

"Since towels are woven, they're pretty stable on their own. If you use regular Solvy, even two layers of it, you won't have to wash the stabilizer out of the towels when you're finished with the embroidery."


I would suggest generally a "wet laid " non directional; 1.5 oz to 1.8 oz tearaway - one or 2 layers - depending on the stitch count and density in back as a stabilizer - we add lubricants here aagin to promote needle glide

and as a topping
a layer or 2 of "solvy" aka water soluble topping

http://www.lebowconsulting.com/stabi...icles.htm#glos

As always
pls feel free to e-mail me off list for samples

Sincerely
Fred
[email protected]

PS Cleaning and oiling your hooks and bobbin cases from lint and other accumultaed debris is always a great idea to be done as part of regular or irregular machine maintenance