slim line2 question

[Shuffletown Embroidery]

I don't recall seeing anything about this before. I left my Slim Line2 clamp installed and open when I shut down my machine. The next time I turned the machine on, the needle case hit it, popping the frame off, when it moved to home. Fortunately, no harm was done other than giving me a fright. It was a noisy event.
The question is, am I supposed to leave the clamp shut or uninstall the clamp chassis before I shut the machine down?
Mary B.

[Rod or Sharon]

Mary,

I have mentioned this several times before over the past couple of years. It is EXTREMELY important to always have the lever that operates the clamp locked in the down position except for when a garment is being placed in the clamp.

The warnings also come up as a pop-up on the OS screen, but they don't tell you "what will happen", only that damage may result in the improper use of the clamping system.

So yes, abolutely make sure the clamp is down in the lock position before doing a trace or the machine is turned off or turned back on. You were very lucky that it did not dislodge your needle case and drop all or most of your needle bars and the need for a tech visit....whew...you can chalk that one up as your lucky day and a very close call.....

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer

[Shuffletown Embroidery]

Thanks, Rod. I guess those other times you mentioned this I was speed reading. (I was never good at that.)
Yes, I felt very lucky indeed. And I will ALWAYS make sure the clamp is locked down from now on. I'm not accustomed to abusing my machines.
I seem to recall that the instructions that came with this thing were minimal, at best, and I certainly can't locate them now. But I have a regular Slim Line coming today with my first small window. I should have instructions in that, and if not, I'll call to ask for some.
Mary B.

[Wishes]

Just to avoid any issues with the clamping system, we remove it at the end of the day and start the machines up and then put it one the next day. Save a lot of nerves.
Margaret

[Redina]

I received the slimline frames with my XT and managed to bend the thread grabber beyond use by leaving the clamp open and hitting it. Since replacing it I have been very careful to always clamp it down as soon as I remove the garment. The directions which accompanied it were minimal and the first time I used it I failed to notice that another top frame was stuck onto the bottom frame and I succeeded in rubbing part of the sandpapery strips that hold the fabric. There was also supposed to be a "blue tape" to install on the arm to help ease friction but it was not included and numerous calls and promises to send one have not made one appear yet. In spite of these setbacks and since figuring out how to use them correctly I use them alot! Tote bags are so much easier without hoopping in a tubular frame.

[Shuffletown Embroidery]

I did get another instruction sheet with my new slim line chassis and the instructions are indeed minimal. I had the problem with the missing tape for the slim line 2, but the salesperson I followed up with said I didn't need it.

Thanks for agreeing about the instructions. I'm a documentation nerd (carryover from my previous job) so I really expect to see better information. Even more so when you can damage a $10K piece of equipment if you use it wrong!

Mary

[cbireley]

I just received my first slim line and opted for the larger one, 12x9. Any tips on how to hoop the garment straight since you do not hoop it off of the machine? Also, I feel like I need extra hands to hold the backing, the garment, and the topping, if I'm doing a towel, for example. Is it me?

[Rod or Sharon]

Cindy,

We tape the backing to the clamp first and then slide the garment into place. We also have placed some tape on the upper frame of the clamp and then measured and marked some index points on both sides and the top and bottom to help in lining up the garment. Yep, this means placing some line up marks on the garment too.....

We also use extra clips around the outside edge of the frames for extra holding power. Make sure that any type of clip, clamps or whatever , is being used, will not come in contact with any part of the machine while doing a trace or during sewing.....

Becareful of the toggle lever, the one that pulls the clamps together to hold the garment. ALWAYS, make sure this is in the down position while sewing, doing a trace or when the clamp is not in use, etc..... failure to do so will cause the lever to come into contact, at some point, with the back side of the needle case and will dislodge the needle cse, dropping one or all of the needle bars......

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer

[Shuffletown Embroidery]

I'm not that qualified to answer, but if it has a straight edge, like your towel, it should be relatively easy to line up. Just put the straight edge parallel to the back of the clamp. I will only use the clamps if I have, or can concoct, a straight edge for alignment and the embroidery is near the edge (you can't stuff much into the area behind the clamp).
When I did that tour golf bag, for example, I used the edge of the pocket flap for alignment.
Mary

[signman]

We have the 3.5 x 5 and 6.5 x 5, haven't gone for the larger ones yet but thinking about it.
I cut backing to about 3/4" larger than the frame, and then use small 'wedge' paper clamps (buy them cheap at Staples) to hold the backing in place-once you have everything aligned and squared up, reach underneath and take the clamp off. For material that
wants to move around-slippery nylon or something, I have the 2" wide wedge clamps that I bent the wings down-so I can clamp the 'frame' itself together, and the wings pointing down so they won't catch the trimmer bar or needle head.
As Rod said, always, always make sure the clamp handle is SNAPPED down into place-you have to FEEL it go into locked position. AND to prevent damage next time you start it up, remove the frame and top frame when done for the day.

[cbireley]

Thank you all so much! I just did my first jacket back and it turned out great! So much easier than popping it into the frame I have...

I think I'll have to add to my collection.

[cbireley]

The larger slim line "hoops" do not come w/the sturdy yellow clamp, I've been told, although the directions say I should have the yellow clamp for heavy duty things and the silver one for lighter weight things. I bought the hoop for jackets backs, chairs, duffles, etc. Has anyone had a problem w/the silver "light weight" clamp not being sturdy enough to do heavier garments?

[GF]

Actually, yes I have and just this week. I was embroiderying a large design on canvas fabric and the larger Slim Line did not have enough grip for the fabric and caused puckering. I used the Fast Frame clips around the left, right and bottom edge of the clamp, but nothing for the top and then the top of the fabric would give way. I contacted Melco saying I did not receive the yellow top with my large Slim Line (thinking it may grip better) and I also was told it did not come with one. Just the silver top. Anyone have ideas on how to secure the top edge of the bracket? After all this tieing down, it really isn't being much of a timesaver. I also noticed that the large Slim Line tends to flag a lot and that caused thread breaks and false bobbin breaks. I had to babysit the sewout and keep my finger on the edge closest to me when the flagging started. It's mind blowing to me that there isn't a hoop designed to avoid flagging, and designed to secure a large item successfully. Some of the home machines really have some creative hooping devices and I feel like the commercial industry is behind the 8-ball on this. For instance, the endless hoop that's available for domestic machines is awesome. Why can't that happen for the commercial machines? Sure would make bordering a large window treatment or tablecloth much easier.

[sewsew7]

To line items up that do not have a straight edge, I use a piece of the green painters tape on top of the item. Then when I do a trace, I can see if it follows the tape line I have created.

[Rod or Sharon]

We have both the Fast Frame set and the clamping systems (large and small) and use all of them often. We purchased small and larger clamps from Home Depot and use as needed on both systems. BE SURE TO PLACE THEM SO THEY ARE NOT IN THE WAY WHEN TRACING--I think Rod explained this in an earlier post. They work extremely well and we have not had a problem with any fabric that they have not been able to handle--from large golf bags to bridal veils.
Sharon