Non-Stop Thread Breaks. Help Quick???!!

[Rod or Sharon]

Yo Roland,

For the Big Red, the "newer" cap frame was the WACF style for your year machine. The CCF/WAD is the older style. These have a front ring that has been partially dipped in black rubber that protrudes towards the crown of the cap and looks very different than the 270 degree WACF versions. the WACF also has a full circle cylinder and the CCF/WAD is more like a half cylinder.

I thought you changed over to the CCF/WAD style?

[signman]

You're right...it's the CCF we went 'back' to. The WACF never worked right for the hats we did even though it worked in the training classes just fine.
I kept one of them, 'just in case' I needed it-and it has never been out of the box in over 3 years.
CCF is the only one we could get to work right!
Some day, some how...we'll get time to 'play' on the machine and figure out how to do some of the things we can't yet-like visors, back and sides of hats,
even 'bucket' hats-haven't been able to hoop one of those successfully yet and I have a case of them to use.

[Steve I]

Does your takeup lever move up and down when the machine is running. I have had two of the plasctic drive gears break on different machines. The clicking when the color change occurs is misalignment of that gear. If the gear is broken off of the hub the machine will act as you described and you won't see any top thread because none has been fed to the needle.

Steve I.
Trinity Embroidery

[Steve I]

Sorry,

I put this on the wrong topic.

Steve I.

[Steve I]

Does your takeup lever move up and down when the machine is running. I have had two of the plasctic drive gears break on different machines. The clicking when the color change occurs is misalignment of that gear. If the gear is broken off of the hub the machine will act as you described and you won't see any top thread because none has been fed to the needle.

Steve I.
Trinity Embroidery

[Steve I]

It appears that I am "list challenged" this morning. I think I'll just start sewing.

Steve I.
Trinity Embroidery

[Rod or Sharon]

Roland,
Hummmm, I thought so.....guess the old memory banks arn't completely gone yet...

As far as the visors, I have found using 2 pieces of full width cap backing and a little sticky spray will hold the visor in place and create kind of a stiff platform for the visor to sit on for support. Just let the backing stick way out in front of the top of the visor..... Works pretty well this way....but you are right, not much area on a visor to work with.....

Rod

[Juli in Kona]

When I bought my WACF, I too had problems, not with the hat actually moving, but with rub marks on the brim that wouldn't come off. I would put a piece of masking tape over that spot and that solved the problem. BUT I would forget to put it on every time, and when I didn't, that hat was ruined.

So, what I did was take the brim holder off of the 270 hat hoop and put it on the WACF. Had to make a trip to Home Depot to get the proper size nuts and got some lock washers at the same time. I only have one WACF and have two of the 270s, so I still have one that is intact.

Worked like a charm and I rarely loose a hat! It was worth every penny to buy the WACF.

Juli in Kona

[Debbie Garifi]

Hi Juli,
Is yours the extended WACF, for the AMAYA XT?
Just wondering if I should be concerned with it leaving marks on the hats.....

Debbie

[Juli in Kona]

I have two different hat hoops. The ones (2) that came with my machine is the 270 deg hoop that pinches rather than clamps the hat. Since I rarely do 270 deg designs, just front stuff, I really don't need that hoop very much. And I was having so much trouble hooping that I just bit the bullet and bought the old style hoop. It's the one with the color plastic coating on the bar closest to you when on the machine. That hoop is so easy to use - it was worth every penny. Fast, easy, accurate, reliable! But it came without that doohicky thingy to hold the brim back out of the way. So, sine I am not using the newer style 270 deg hoops, I took the brim clamp off and put it on the other. Actually, you can buy the brim holder from Melco, but I think it cost about $30 or so.

Juli in Kona

[Gini]

I have had a similar thing happen to me repeatedly in the past. In my case, it was caused by the timing being off. If something gets caught in the bobbin case (like a fabric jam) the timing can get thrown off. If you have tried everything else, this might be the problem. There is a very detailed maintenance procedure for checking and then adjusting the timing. You can find this procedure in the technical manual but this procedure is a little tricky, and I would advise contacting Melco service and have them walk you through it. We had to do this procedure constantly in the beginning- I still dont know why the timing was getting off. We learned to do this procedure in our sleep but the first few times it was trial and error. Now the machine has settled in and we havent had the problem in a while (except once when stitching a beanie and the back side of the hat got caught in the bobbin case....) But if this is your problem, then you will get constant thread breaks until the timing gets adjusted properly. Good Luck!

[Debbie Garifi]

Juli,
You have the AMAYA XT's right? Is the cap frame called CCF and in the hoop display it is the CCF/WAD that you check? Is the color plastic coating green? My tech that was out here last Monday told me to invest in this one and not to bother struggling with the ones that came with our XT's, which is the XT Extended WACF in the Hoop display. Just want to make sure I order the right one from hooptech and I thought it was called the EMS 270 Cap Frame on their website.
Please confirm when you have time.
Thanks again.
Debbie

[Juli in Kona]

This is the story: I got the #12155, cap, conventional WACC. That is what my invoice says. And I agree with your service guy, you will love this hoop after struggling with the newer type. I took off the brim holder of the one I didn't like, and after a trip to Home Depot to get new nuts and lock washers, I attached it to my 12155 (it has green plastic).

Also, I suggest that at the same time, you get 16 #30619-01 Roller, Pinch, Textured. Won't cost any more in freight but now you will be able to change out the pinch roller really fast. Just take all the old ones off and put the newly greased ones on. Then later, at your leisure, you can clean up the old ones & put them away until the next time.

At any rate, the hoop you want has green plastic on the front part. And Hooptech should know which one fits your machine.

Bottom line is you will love it!

Juli in Kona

[Debbie Garifi]

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.
I will order one now & also get those pinch rollers so I always have a spare complete set for that always so fun, maintenance.

Deb

[GF]

Chrissy,

If there is clicking during a color change, is that always a symptom for a tech? I have that randomly but frequently, and on most needles. I have two machines, and they both do it. One more than another. My machines seem to be running well, but I always wondered about it.

GF