re-engaging bobbin sensor

[tallcottongraphics]

We were having problems with false bobbin breaks and our tech said he could disengage the bobbin sensor, which he did. This was fine when we were doing a lot of hats, just kept checking the bobbin between stitching. However he did not show us how he did it.

Now we are in the process of doing quite a few large patches and of course the bobbin runs out before the patch is stitched out which causes a big mess especially if we don't catch it right away.

How do we re-engage the bobbin sensor so we don't have to watch the machine constantly?

Thanks.

[Rod or Sharon]

Was the issue ever taken care of that was causing the false bobbin breaks??? I am not sure I would settle for having to disengage the bobbin sensor to "fix the problem" even though there are times when that can work. What did the tech say was the problem?
Sharon

[tallcottongraphics]

The machine was used when we bought it and kept having major problems when we were stitching hats. My daughter is the one that runs the machine so I am not sure why he disengaged the sensor. I just know we have not had many problems with it since.

However we would like to be able to reengage it and don't know how.

[HERB]

Generally speaking with the Big Red versions we don't run bobbin detect with caps. This is a switchable setting in your AMAYA OS. Go to TOOLS/SETTINGS. This is where you can activate the detection systems for the thread feed.

[Rod or Sharon]

Herb is right...

Back when the first Amayas came out, the software we started with was Version 4.00.xxx.

With Ver 4--5--6-- whenever a cap driver was selected in the hoop section, a popup immediately came up that instructed you to "disable" the bobbin detect. This was just part of the cap sewing process.

Somewhere in either the Ver 6 or 7 this popup no longer came up...my mind is a bit fuzzy on just when...doesn't matter. The point is, this use to a normal thing to do. Now that more information has been supplied, it makes more sense as to why the tech said to disable the bobbin detect.

As Herb has indicated, in Tools, Settings, this can be turned off and on at your conveinence, and yes when it is turned off you do have to babysit the machine, altho you can utilize the "Bobbin Counter" tool to stop the machine after a certain stitch count of your choosing...

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer

[Merlin1964]

um, not to change the subject, but where is the bobbin counter located in version 5?

Just wanted to know. So when I do use the cap driver, I can set the counter.

Thanks..
Jeff

[gcannon]

The bobbin timer in both ver.7 and ver.10 are under settings>machine. Just check the box to enable and then set the stitch count at which you want the software to alert you. I have never run ver.5, so I hope it's in the same place.

[amayaki]

Hi Tallcottongraphics, I have had exactly the same problem of false bobbin breaks, but from a different angle - machine unused over a year, recently recommenced using same. Did big clean and followed excellently illustrated maintenance instructions, then had good and bad sew-outs, with both thread breaks and endless false bobbin breaks. The latter have disappeared with the addition of a 'floating backing' which is an extra piece of backing literally floating between the hooped fabric and backing, and the needle plate. It has been such a spectacular change - unbelievable. Other issues with sheared thread breaks have been partly resolved with a change of thread spools, to fresh spools replacing several of the 16 spools which sat, covered, but exposed to strong light for 16 months, changing the angle of the needle to 20 degrees plus, and changing needles (instructions say to change needles after 4-6 hours of use.I'm not under the same commercial pressure as you, (yet), but I commend the use of a 'floating backing' - it works for me, and no changes to any settings, except to ever so slightly tighten bobbin tension as spools winds out.

[Rod or Sharon]

amayaki,

Just curious as to what kind of backing you were using to both hoop with and float with and what material you were sewing on?

Also 20+ degrees on the needle orientation is quite a bit of rotation. This needle positioning has to do with the small loop of thread that is generated behind the needle and it's best presentation to the point of the rotary hook. As you rotate the needle you are in effect rotating this loop from side to side of the needle center. A 90 degree position straight back from the center of the needle is the ideal position. The natural curl of the thread coming off of the thread spool is one of the reasons to turn the needle 5 to 10 degrees to the right. It then brings the curled thread back to the center of the needle. Going too far with the needle rotation will move the loop past the center position and start closing up the loop access for the hook point. The smaller the column being sewen, the smaller these loops are....which makes the hook timing left and right and needle guard gap positions very important...and the retaining support finger gap as well...

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer

[amayaki]

Hi Rod, I have been using both the cutaway and tear away rolls of backing that came with the Amaya 2 years ago. I have been sewing out on new and multi-washed T-shirts, new and multi washed tea-towels, new and multi washed terry towelling items, and right now, on simple crafter's cotton/polyester to make Easter designs on swatches, ready for patchworkers to cut and use with their respective Easter crafts. My fave 18k stitch Easter egg design is far from perfectly digitised (an open-use freebie), and when I note small, repetitive stitches, I can move the Amaya forward. Using the 'floating underlay' gave such a startling improvement in reducing false bobbin breaks that it was worthy of note for the initial post of this discussion.

I have some delicate lacy and net fabrics to embroider and will try an extra layer of wash-away with those.I wasn't 100% impressed with the tear away, so will pin the edges of the wash-away to stop the flop!

I note your technical points about the needle angle, however, I am also surprised at how difficult it is to both insert and manipulate the angle of needles on the Amaya. I use a protractor and guess work.

Finally, I am encouraged by a much more experienced Amaya operator whose philosophy is "whatever works...."

[Rod or Sharon]

We have a smal, lighted magnifying glass we use to when inserting new needles. We train our customers to look at the indentation down the front of the needle rather than the eye of the needle. Another little trick is to break off a pencil so it isn't too long, insert the needle in the eraser and use the pencil to insert the needle. While one hand holds the needle, the other hand can be used to use your little screwdriver to tighten the needle when it is where you want it. I like to start with my needle straight forward then turn ever so slightly to the right. It actually positions the hole so that I can shoot the thread through very easily with my right hand!
Sharon

[HERB]

I use a pair of forceps (medical supply, about $3) and a small lighted magnifyer from hardware store. Clamp the needle in the forceps. Use the magnifyer to check angle. I am old, eyes are bad mmmkay.
Rod is spot on with the angle of the needle. If you have to use a greater angle to get her to sew you are crutching for a problem elsewhere. I will tell you these machines will go miles if they are set up correctly. I did 87 dozen caps in January with 3 machines. I don't think I had more than 30 thread breaks that were not caused by some defineable problem.

[amayaki]

Hi Sharon, I'm very confused abut the pencil and the rubber, and I can't 'see' what it is you are doing. I could imagine just sticking the point of the needle into a soft eraser and using that to guide the needle under and up - actually, that's quite a clever idea, but I still can't figure out the broken pencil. I do use a large and powerful magnified light, but the needle replacement is well below my line of sight, and I don't have the physical pliability to bend or kneel and look up. I'd have never been a good dentist - can't read a mirror backwards or upside down, so it remains a fumble, as none of the 3 pairs of forceps I have, can hold the needle, but I do like the eraser idea. In summary, the floating backing has reduced the false bobbin breaks dramatically, and the extra needle angle helps reduce thread breaks.

BTW, Tallcottongraphics, has any of this helped you, and what's your situation like, now?

Thanks to all respondents who have given me food for thought.

[Rod or Sharon]

The pencil....

Sit in a chair directly in front of the machine. The "broken or short, pencil only makes it easier to have sufficient room to get the needle into the needlebar "if" you are replacing a needle directly over the sewing arm. If you were to move the broken needle "bar" to either side of the sewing arm, then a full length pencil could be used.

I like to index the eraser with a vertical line with a ball point pen and poke the needle into the eraser lining up the vertical groove in the needle with the index line on the pencil. Really helps, especially with the gold colored needles. I find them harder to see the groove in clearly.

If you are left handed, hold the pencil in your left hand, insert the needle into the eraser, then insert the needle into the needlebar and turn the needle to the correct position. I use a small lighted magnifying glass, held in my right hand, until I get the needle positioned correctly , swap the magnifying glass for a screwdriver and tighten the needleclamp screw. Some folks use a head mount magnifying glass which works well also.

I am sill not sure just "where" and "when" you are using the tear-a-way backing. Tear-a-ways offer little in the way of stabillity and trying to use them on T shirts without either a polymesh or cut-a-way would be a failure ...

Sounds like the toothbrush idea with the brisles cut off would work well too....

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer

[Mama Kass]

Another idea... most sergers or overlock machines come with a little plastic stick with a needle-sized hole in one end and a brush on the other. It is for inserting needles and works just as well for the Amayas.