false bobbin breaks, x axis only

[Mama Kass]

Help! I'm 3.5 million stitches into a 4 million stitch order and I can't figure out what's wrong. I have a Big Red with no acti-feed and am using the same designs, same metallic threads, same backing and hoops and the same settings as the previous 3.5 million stitches and am now having false bobbin breaks when stitching the x axis portion of columns. The back side looks as though the top thread is being pulled tight, the columns narrow and virtually no bobbin thread shows.

I had the same problem about one million stitches ago and adjusted my rotary hook, ran a perfect AMPASS and everything was fine after I realized that my screws holding the large hoop were loosening up after doing wide columns. No problems until now. I've checked my thread feed rollers, presser foot height, rotary hook timing and needleguard gap, bobbin case condition and tension, and needle condition and orientation; I lubed everything before I ran the AMPASS and have kept the rotary hook etc. well oiled (i.e. more often than the timers prompt). I'm going to try another hoop, stay calm, and wait to hear if anyone has any ideas.

[Judy]

I'd start with changing out the bobbin case and the bobbin, and changing the spool of thread.
\
Sometimes, it's just a bad bobbin and it's impossible to tell.

[Juli in Kona]

Change the needle!!! Metallic thread totals needles.

Juli in Kona

[Maggie21]

I was just having a similar problem. I, like you, cleaned and oiled every where I could think of. I decreased the actifeed to 1 and still the problem persisted in the exact same spot. I figured it had to be a digitizing issue so I went into the design and made the problem columns a little bit wider and now the design runs smoothly. Don't know if this is something you can do for such a large design but it may be worth a try.
Good Luck

[Mama Kass]

Thanks for answering so quickly; its nice to know there's somebody out there when I want to scream.

I did try changing the bobbin case, needle etc. no dice...I've been using the same design for years with no problem. I'm now thinking it may be the hoop. I have it wrapped in athletic tape and may have overdone it on this one. Right now I have the same design running in an identical hoop without so much tape - so far no problem. The hoop was hard to engage in the clips on the hoop arms so I'm wondering if that isn't somehow affecting the whole presser foot/tension relationship. I hope the solution is this simple, even though it means I'm going to have to pop the partially sewn design from the problem hoop and get it lined back up again. ugh! Needless to say, I'm not taking this step until I'm sure the entire 60K design sews out in the hoop I now have running.

[Mama Kass]

60k just sewed out without even a thread break, so I guess I'll be re-wrapping my other hoop tonight. Again, thanks, it's nice to know there's help even if I end up figuring it out myself - panic control so to speak.

[crossthread]

Question?? Why do you wrap your hoops and with what.
Thanks,

[Wishes]

Dear Pam,
The larger rectangular hoops stay tight in the corners but not so tight in the straight areas. Take and wrap athletic tape around the outside hoop and it will keep the fabric from slipping. Wrap evenly and a single layer works well for us. The tape is very similar to the tape they use after a blood draw. Use white from the drugstore, is rough feeling and slighty sticky but isn't like adhesive tape.

[Mama Kass]

Exactly. Johnson & Johnson calls their tape "Hurt-Free Tape." I had a problem because I had wrapped my hoop with bias tape before learning about athletic tape and didn't remove it before adding the athletic wrap. It all made my hoop too deep.

Another advantage to the wrap is that you can pin your fabric to the wrap along the long edges to prevent the slippage that can occur with dense designs.

[Greenwing]

I know I am going to get shouted down for mentioning this.

I have found that when you wrap your hoops thye will distort even more.

the solution I have found for the last 15 years and it has served me well.

is to keep the inner hoop slightly tacky with spray adhesive, Yes it gathers lint and needs to be cleaned. for me it is about once a year.

My hoops look horrible! BUT ! I can hoop vialine water soluable with out any fear of movement.
I have never had any transfer to garments and I do not have to tighten my hoops to excess. which helps with hoop burn.

So if you choose to use the tape have at it, Just pointing out a better way. IMHO

[Mama Kass]

I do use spray adhesive (although not on the hoops themselves); with velvets and large continuous designs its the best option as long as you keep your machine clean.

Do you mean that you have found that using wrap warps your hoops? I haven't noticed this, but I'm willing to listen. Are you talking about using spray on both wooden and plastic hoops; how much do you use; how do clean it off? How is it that the build-up doesn't make a mess that gets on the hooped pieces? I have found that even a bit of spray adhesive on a white piece will pick up every piece of dust and lint within a hundred mile radius(OK, that's an exageration).

[Greenwing]

I use just enough to make them tacky.
Very little, Cleaning them is a breeze I us
naptha, Kingsford lighter fluid is Naptha.

It is used in the refinishing industry as a way to clean wood of wax and other impurities.

I do not Clean the hoop vey often at all I clean if they get REALLY linty but other wise. just leave it be.

Do not hoop while the adhesive is wet only after it has set up a minute or two and you will not need to tighten your hoop near as tight.

Give it a try.

Never spray by your machine. i use a large pizza box.