Pull comp

[Nalo_b]

Hi every time I add pull comp to 103-105 the object that I'm adding the pull comp to gets deformed. Anyway to add pull comp and keep the design shape?

Also I have to embroider dry fit shirts but am getting puckering. What is the best settings to use to stop puckering? I have used two sheets of poly mesh and also tried a medium cut away and still get puckering. Tried upping the density to 4-4.5 also set the actifeed to 5.

Any help is appreciated!
Thanks
Chad

[Greenwing]

I had good results with one layer of Poly mesh and on layer of "Stiff" medium tear away. you can also raise the min. thread feed to 3 or 4 if you still have issues.

the design type can have a lot to do with it also.
is their a lot of satins if so use a fill underlay with an edge walk with a 4pt margin.

[Greenwing]

Tear away, then poly mesh then, the garment it does make a difference.

[Nalo_b]

Thanks Jerome. So the tear away under the mesh? Will try it tomorrow!

[Mama Kass]

Jerome, most of my designs are satin columns so I am always looking for ways to reduce puckering. I have a very early (5.something) version of design shop that doesn't seem to have "fill" as an option for underlays on columns. If I were to try to accomplish this by copying the element and changing the element type to a fill, do you think this might work as an underlayment if I put in a negative pull comp to make it slightly smaller? If so, what density should the fill be? I hope this makes sense.

[Greenwing]

The fill just needs to hold the fabric and backing together so it can't bridge under the satin. I use anywhere between 15pts & 25pts depending how soft the gament material is. and how wide my columns are. AND NEVER USE columns more then 1/4" wide.... ever with these type of garments.

I have used a copy of the area with a low density.
You may also be able to set your stitch length for your underlay if so set it for 20pts and it will be a fill. give it a try.

Also be sure to hoop firmly with just a bit of tension on the fabric. if the fabric is loose it will be puckered.

[Steve I]

We use a cutaway and a tearaway with just a little 505 adhesive to keep the fabric from pushing. There have been times when we have increased the column feed from 40 to 60. This, along with a good underlay to hold the fabric in place works for us.

Steve I.
Trinity Emb.

[Mama Kass]

The fill underlay may really help me. For reasons too long to explain here, I very often can't hoop my fabric but have to stick it to hooped backing with 505 and either baste or pin around the embroidery area. You have given me a word to describe my biggest issue - bridging under the columns. Thanks for your help.

[Greenwing]

You should think about getting the hood master mighty hoop.
The magnetic hoop.

THEY ARE GREAT !!!!

WELL WORTH THE MONEY!!!!!!!!!!

[Greenwing]

Sorry MAGNETIC HOOP!!

[Mama Kass]

I wish we could afford it. Also many of our designs are a full 16" wide, requiring the big jacket back hoop. Last time I checked the magnetic hoops were not this big...maybe eventually.

[Greenwing]

They now come in a 13" x 16" size using the sash arms on the Amaya..

[MJ]

Do you mean you only have to buy the 13x15 frame and it fits right on the Amaya machine? You don't need to buy anything else?
Where do they sell it online?

[Greenwing]

Nope
You do need the Sash arms

They are on my wish list also,

I now own 3 other sizes 5.5" 7.25" & 13"x11"
next will be 10"
then I will save & spring for the 16x13.

hardly ever use the orginal Amaya hoops any longer.

[MJ]

I'm sorry, I don't know what you mean by "sash arms"? Do you have to buy those from Mighty Hoop to use it on the Amaya XTS?