Hoop for back of ball cap?

[HH5131]

I need to do the back of ball cap, 25 of them. I cannot do this on the WACF because the bill gets in the way when it goes on the machine. Tried it on a small round hoop, but it's very difficult to hoop that way. Any suggestions?

[crookednail]

If you have the "fast frames" they might work good for you.

[drose700]

Pocket hoops work well.

[Shuffletown Embroidery]

I always use the 12cm hoop on the Hoop Master free-style base. Only half the hat is hooped, but it's a perfect solution.

[Jenny]

We always use the Fast Frames for this. We use the Fast Frames for a lot of our embroidery.

Jenny Westbrook
Westbrook Wonders

[gcannon]

I too use the 12 cm hoop. I just hoop the back half of the cap- all I am doing is putting lettering around the hole. The top (or bottom) of the circle part of the hoop it right up against the button at the top of the cap. This leaves plenty of room to do the lettering around the hole. Then I print out what I'm going to put on the cap at actual size withe the origin then use the laser to line it up perfectly. One layer of 3.5 oz tearaway and you are good to go (I slip it in after I get the cap on the machine. Remember the way I do it, you have to run the design upside-down.

[ckramer]

I also use the 12cm hoop for cap backs, the only problem I sometimes encounter is not always having the keyhole of the cap spread out exactly the same by the time the hoop is actually on. Sometimes the sides are farther apart or closer together it seems. This affects the sewout. Also, I would like a simple method of gaging how much of an arc one should create in their lettering to follow the arc of the keyhole when sewn. All caps don't always get sewn the same either I have noticed. Any suggestions appreciated.

[gcannon]

There are differences in absolutely every cap- you are correct. That is why I use a cut-out of the design on paper- I can use it to get the arc as close as I can as well as use it to get it where I want it on the machine. The differences I've just learned to live with. I cut the print-out of the design just below the lettering so I can press it up against the cap to see if I have the arc (close to) correct. If not- just tug and pull (I have to use both hands and my belly-lol) till you get it where you want it in the frame.

[Shuffletown Embroidery]

A tool I have used to gauge the arc of the cap opening is a template I made using Corel Draw. Just draw a bunch of concentric circles with different radii. Start with 2" and go up in 1/2" increments. Print this out and you will have something to physically measure your hat back against. Then use that radius to create the lettering.
Hmmm, this might be clear as mud. I would have to dig, but I could possibly find the file if you would like to have a copy.
Mary

[Rod or Sharon]

To throw my 2 cents worth in here....I have settled on using the Slimline clamping system, sold by Melco, for doing the back of our caps. It is fast and works great.

An old trick for getting a very close arc line for the style of cap being sewn on, is to position and scan the cap as flat as you can get it on your scaner, save the image as a jpeg, bring this image into DS and digitize the arc line using a walk stitch. Save this image for this particular style cap.

Using the walk stitch image, you can now type in your line of lettering and arc it around the walk stitch image....it is easily adjustable from this point, for minor modifications.

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer

[ckramer]

Terrific ideas for the keyhole arc! Thank you all!

[Nalo_b]

I also use the hooptech slimline clamps for the back of caps. It's really fast and simple. It has made a lot of the jobs I have done a lot easier. One of the best investments I have made.

Thanks for all the ideas for doing the arches!

[ErinsExpressions]

I use fast frames. I've never tried anything else though. Most of my hats are truly fitted or flexible fitted so I don't have to deal with the arc (only the difficulty of hooping the front since most are unstructured or only lightly structured!).

[TN Thom]

I just purchased a Hoop Tech Cap Frame for Cap Backs. This works with the cap frame. Very easy to use and holds the cap in place very well while sewing. Price was $206.50 and I don't have to struggle with the round hoops typing to get them in place. would recommend this to anyone that is doing a lot of cap backs.