Monogram on Woven Cashmere

[YDCustom]

Our company produces a line of woven cashmere throws (retail price $215) and we have customers who want to have them monogrammed. As you can guess from that price point, we're reluctant to just grab one and start sewing out a ton of samples in order to figure this out!

Although they appear solid, the throws are actually a fairly loose twill weave with a lot of fuzzy halo around them. My single attempt to monogram one left us with holes at some points, especially where a script font (our most popular) looped back on itself, and a very distinct outline around the monogram where the fabric had been pulled away. Not the best look.

I had hooped with 1 layer of wet-laid 1.5oz tearaway in a standard two piece hoop and dropped the density down to half what we normally use with an edge walk underlay. I tried a 3" monogram but would going bigger help any?

Is it possible to monogram on these or should I just give it up for lost?

[flebow]

As a stabilizer,esp if there is any thickness to the fabric,I would suugest our "washaway"
aka mistakenly as Vilene

Fred
Pls feel free to ail me off list for samples

[Greenwing]

I have stitched on this type of Throw and it works best if I use wash away on top and bottom with the fabric in between. also I used a fill underlay with and edge walk. this provideed the base that would hold up to the lack of stable fabric.

You can get the washaway out with a wet paper towel to blot the design and a ball of scrap wash away to dab it with the damp backing will stick to the ball.

[Mama Kass]

Unless I'm mistaken, the washaway that Fred is referring to looks like a sheer fabric and should be totally submerged in warm water to remove it. Jerome seems to be suggesting a product like Solvy, which though easier to remove might not provide the same support. I have no idea which work better in this application; perhaps someone can jump in here.

[YDCustom]

These are dry clean only, so I could use Solvy but definitely not something that has to be completely submerged.

[Mama Kass]

I have hand-washed plenty of cashmere items, so immersing a corner and slightly agitating it would be possible but perhaps not very practical if you have a lot of these to do.

[Greenwing]

NO I am refering to Washaway NOT SOLVY!!

Solvy is not stable enough to form the underlay and stitches properly.

You are not washing this.

We spin casmer and frankly dry cleaning is not recomended. it will strip the natural oils from the fibers.

But you don't need to submerge it you only need to wet the design and the washaway will pull away.
We have been doing it for years. Never harmed any thing (even silk) though you do have to be careful with silk.

[flebow]

THe fibrous washaway does not have to be submerged
A damp or moist sponge at room temp
Make sure that yours is made to dissolve at room temp
Inexpensive versions are only warm to hot water.

I am a firm believer that fibers hold stitches far far better than films as the fibers all become entangled w the glue reside fom the stabilizer leading to tighter definition or better registration .
There are a few other reasons not to use film stabilizeers but that is perhaps for another time.

Fred

[Mama Kass]

Sorry if I phrased my post rudely; I was trying to clarify what type of washaway was being recommended. I have only recently heard of fibrous washaway and I think there are others who may only know about film products. The instructions for Washaway say to immerse, but I'm glad to hear otherwise because it could come in handy.

Fred, we'd all benefit if you wrote another of your reports on fibrous vs. film stabilizers...how about film as toppings?

Jerome, what do you mean by "spin" as opposed to dry clean?

[YDCustom]

I'm personally aware that cashmere can be soaked and then spun out in a washing machine. Unfortunately, I have to abide by the care instructions our company provides so I need something that is start to finish done w/ no water involved.

[Greenwing]

We actually "Spin" cashmere, Alpaca, wool, Angora ect...
in the shop.

With a Spinning Wheel, We usually encourage folks to hand wash with little or no agitation. the solvents in Dry cleaning are very agressive.

But You can and we do use the spin cycle to dry high quality fiber.
We even have a salad spinner for this
Anything to get the job done...LOL

[YDCustom]

OK, Greenwing, I'd love to speak with you more about that for reasons entirely unrelated to embroidery! Is it a commercial spinning operation?

[Greenwing]

no not commercial, we host the local spinning guild
though there are commercial members.

[flebow]

Fred, we'd all benefit if you wrote another of your reports on fibrous vs. film stabilizers...how about film as toppings?


Thats a good idea
I am copyjng our publicity person - Deb Sexton - that some you may know

Another reason is that in a humid part of the world I learned this from doing clssses w the embroiderers - that the film stabilizer would not maintain a "tambourinhe skin" type tension
esp in humid areas like
Houston New Orleans
Film stabilizers would instantly sag leading to movement in the hoop leading to poor registration

Again as allways pls contact me direct and off list for samples

There is another reason that I have not mentioned w film vs fibroius stabilizers
There is one more part -
And the most important reason perhaps next reply to a query as its late

Goodnight all

Fred

[Mama Kass]

Jerome, it sounds like you're the go-to guy for questions about knits!

Fred, I'll be looking forward to it.

So much depth of knowledge...thanks for sharing.