Loopy Threads on Hats

[Tcrooksy]

I'm having troubles with loopy stitches (Lettering) on hats. Can anyone provide me with some general guidelines? The issue is with my lettering. I am using the Buffo-Dak font about .5in Here are some other settings: Width 110%; Density 4.5; Short Stitch; Pull Comp 130%; My presser foot is one click down; Speed is 600 spm and Acti-Feed at 6. I checked my bobbin tension and am using the Towa Gage at about 150-200. The hat is structured from Outdoor Cap and I am using a hat backing. I'm just not getting clean lettering and the thread gets loose and loops. Thanks

[Juli in Kona]

Is there underlay? I'd probably use center underlay and maybe decrease the density to 5, but 4.5 should be all right. The Actifeed I'd set to auto. Presserfoot - 1 click up, not down - right? And your speed is way way too slow. Try 1000 or more. And I lock all ins and outs.

You just have to mess around with the settings. BTW, Melco says speed should be over 900. I have been regularly running at 1350 lately.

Juli in Kona

[Tcrooksy]

Thanks Juli, I'll give that a try. I was told to go slow on hats so I never went that fast, seems like it would 'Pull' better going faster.

I'll adjust the other settings and see how that works. Have a great day!

[Steve I]

1,000 spm is slow for an AMAYA. I have a friend wit Tajima's and when ever I go over to her place and her machines are running (@ 550-650 SPM) It seems like I can almost count the stitches. Julie is correct I have had no success sewing with the presser foot 1 or 2 clicks from the top. I usually run them 2 clicks up. Your looping is most likely caused by the hat flagging because the presser foot is not holding it down when the stitch is created. I usually run caps at 1150spm. Seems to be the best range for not getting thread breaks.

Steve I.
Trinity Embroidery

[Tcrooksy]

Thanks Steve. I think my major issue was the Presser Foot. I adjusted that, two clicks up, and increased my speed a bit and it is running much better.

[Rod or Sharon]

Here again we see a difference in the Amaya evolution.

The Big Reds used a "raised" needleplate and the presserfoot, when used with this raised needleplate, was set all the way up and down two (2) clicks.

The XT series have a round sewing arm, different style of frames and do not have an inter-changeable needleplate, therefore the presserfoot position has changed to all the way down and up two (2) clicks.

Just a small history lesson there....... guess that gives an example of how fast things can change when you can now give a "history" lesson on the Amaya evolution!!!!!!!!!

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer

[Tcrooksy]

Thanks for the history lesson Rod. I'm guessing the Presser foot on the XTS will work best '2 clicks up' for most material like hats and T's. Jackets I'm sure a bit more. Do you have any other 'Rules of Thumb' on the Presser foot Rod?

[Rod or Sharon]

I would say that 99% of your sewing will be done at 1 or 2 clicks up from the bottom. T shirts ....I keep the XT at 1 click up, but do not run at super hig speeds. I have seen the presserfoot acually cut the material with high speeds and too low of a presserfoot setting on some materials.

The job of the presserfoot is to hold the material down until the needle has a chance to pull free from the garment and then follow the neeYdle up.

Run the presserfoot as low as is possible without damageing the material. Sensitive materials like suede, velvet, etc, if pounded on will leave a foot print on the material. You may have to raise the presserfoot a notch if this is the case, otherwise keep it low.

I think I have only had the presserfoot at 3 clicks up a couple of times and at 4 clicks up only once that I can remember.....

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer

[Tcrooksy]

Thanks or the full explanation Rod. I have a better understanding of how the Presserfoot works and what it's purpose is.