Polo Shirt Stabilizer Help

[watusibison]

We have been practicing with our machine for 2 months before we even started a hat job. Now we would like to practice on some polo shirts but need some help where to start with the stabilizers.

Can anyone tell me if I have this right for embroidering a Nike Pique Knit 100% poly or Dri Mesh or Wicking 100% poly, polo?

2 pieces No show Mesh fusible with first piece at a 90 then the next at a 45 degrees. Then a med weight tear away. Then a water soluble topping?


Thanks for any help or advice. This will all be practice for us, so I am sure we will learn as we practice.

[Greenwing]

On the soft moisture wicking polos I have found that If I use a CRISP Tearaway and then a Noshow mesh or 1.5oz cut away I get very good results.

some use a "soft Tearaway" But it does not keep the stitching of columns as crisp as the stiffer tearaways do.

And I use the tearaway as the backing closest to the inside as to allow it to be removed completly.
If you use it on top of the cutaway I have found that it can bunch up in small areas after mulitpul washings.

Have not found the need for topping unless they are a heavier pique..

Just the way it works for us.

[Frecklebelly]

When you say use the tearaway as the backing "closest to the inside" is that "inside", as in against the polo material, or "inside" as in the side that touches the person's body?

Thanks for the post. Look forward to trying it!

[Greenwing]

Cloest to The inside of the garment

Ring,
tearaway,
cutaway (or no show mesh),
adhesive if you choose,
garment
then inner hoop.


So it can be removed after stitching or by washing.

I have also found a very small amount of spray adhesive can help loads with stretch fabrics.

[Frecklebelly]

That's what I thought. Thanks for clarifying. And I agree, a bit of quality spray adhesive helps tremendously.

[Juli in Kona]

Just be careful of the spray glue. I got myself into deep doodoo using it. When the needle goes through it and the needle is warm or hot from friction, the glue volatilizes and the gas condenses all inside the cutter and bobbin areas. Then there are thread breaks and mis-trims until you want to throw your machine through a plate glass window! Major frustration because nothing you do helps the situation. Rod put me straight and had me do a WD40 wash. I never noticed that the whole inside around the cutter was 100% covered with a thin coat of glue. The WD40 dissolved it and I was able to wipe it all off. No more thread breaks, no more mis-trims, life got good. Now I rarely use spray glue. Instead I use Iron-On No-Show and float a CRISP tear-away under (most bottom layer). I almost always have perfect registration and no pulling even on t-shirts and wicking polos.

Juli in Kona

[Frecklebelly]

Haven't had that problem (yet), but am aware of the dangers of sticky buildup and would love to hear more about the WD40 wash. Sounds like a great maintenance tip!

Would you, or Rod, mind passing it on?

[MJ]

I agree with not using spray adhesive unless absolutely necessary. On all polos, t-shirts, anything knit or stretchy, I use a fusible poly mesh. Don't use too hot of an iron when you fuse it onto the clothing item -- just enough for it to adhere. This way, it won't leave any unwanted residue and will be easier to remove the excess. And then I use one or two layers of tearaway next to the hoop.
MJ, Everything Embroidered

[flebow]

First What is your stitch count?
and is it dense?
Secondly the mesh is closest to the skin w a tearaway behind it
Use a fusible mesh if you are afraid of any slippage
We make a low melt fus mesh

Please see http://www.lebowconsulting.com/stabilizer-articles.htm - performance wear and as always pls contact me direct off list

[watusibison]

Thanks so much for everyones opinons and advice! For being a newbie on here, I can not believe all the help we have been getting. Most be some great people on here!

It seems like Fred will be a huge help also!

Thanks again.