Setting machine thread feed

[ckramer]

I think our machines are a bit too tight for their settings on the thread feed, as no matter what is used for backing on thin or dri-fit type garments, we still get some puckering. We have used the mesh, extra stable with the fibers that run both directions, regular cut away, etc. so I am down to thinking our thread feed is not correct as the tension is perhaps the cause now. We are running the "tweeners" not the big reds, and not the XT's, but the amayas that were in the transition stage between those two. I have the thread feed now set at 51 with the lower limit set at 3 in order to get them to still sew without false thread breaks. Bobbin tension is dropping about 1 1/2". Have tried the 1" drop with the auto setting as suggested with the thread feed at 50, but that was worse. do I want to keep increasing or decrease the thread feed and drop the lower limit or what to alliviate this problem? We have tried all the suggested backings, toppings, whatever and still the problem exists, so this is all I can come up with as the culprit. Anyone???

[sschroed2]

Could be you are not hooping properly. When you tap the backside after hoop it should sound like a drum.

[GF]

Try setting your lower actifeed setting from 3 to 4 or even 5 and see if that helps. Change 51 to 50; and even try changing 100 to 101.

[Mike Doe]

After much testing on dry weave/4 way stretch fabric here are 3 categories that should help improve the sew quality for these tricky materials. Please note: that this is only suggestions and not the embroidery law


Fabric Prep. - After embroidering on the fabric using five different types of backing including adhesive sprayed cut away, no show nylon, tear away hat backing, heat fusible, and Filmoplast. Findings were that these types of fabrics must be glued or somehow fused to a backing to keep shrinkage and puckering to a minimum. The hopes were that the Filmoplast would work because it is the easiest to apply to the garments. The findings, however, were that no matter how many layers of it were used, it still gave way and made a bubble out of the embroidery. The fact that it is a tear away product makes it too light for the job.

The best results were with the heat fusible backing. Two layers crosshatched behind the fabric provided the best foundation, although one layer yielded acceptable results when the grain was 90 degrees to the fabric grain and is of course cheaper and faster to apply. Maybe one layer could be used on designs that don’t have a lot of fill and a high stitch count, and two layers for the designs over, say, about 9,000 stitches or so. Also one layer of the thick tear away backing slid under the hooped garment really helped the tie-in and tie-out stitches hold better without looping. It took the sponginess out which gives the tie-in stitches a firmer base to tie a tight knot.

The fusible backing must exceed the hoop ring when hooping. This will stabilize the material. It would be best to try to use black fusible backing on dark garments and white with lights. Be sure to use as small as hoop as possible that will still fit the design.
Note: The fusible backing is permanent and cannot be trimmed away after the embroidery is done. The fusible backing we used was very light in weight and soft to the touch so there was very little to no visible sign of this backing on the finished shirt material.

Digitizing –
1.Turn off Auto Tie feature for all designs.
2.Keep pinching (pointed columns) to a minimum.
3.Center out thread path is absolutely mandatory on all areas of every design. This is to include all elements especially lettering.
4.Thread trims need to be kept to a minimum.
5.All underlay should be kept to a minimum and density should be kept as low as possible to keep puckering down.

AMAYA settings- Auto mode is the best feed style for this fabric. For the best results use 3 for the minimum setting (floor). Sewing speed didn’t seem to matter. Bobbin was tensioned slightly less than normal. This means that if held by the by the bobbin thread (and not through the pigtail) that the case and thread would slowly unwind by itself.
Ironing the embroidery after completion of sewing made an improvement also.

Thanks to Scott Stengel for his efforts on this.

[ckramer]

THANKS for the info! Much appreciated!

[Mama Kass]

Two more tips that have helped me:
1. If you need to use a large hoop, wrap it in athletic tape - the stretchy, non-adhesive kind. It prevents slippage along the long edges that tend to be difficult to hoop tightly. You can even pin the fabric to the tape for further slippage insurance if you have a slippery fabric.
2. Use a soft tearaway that gives good stitch support and helps with definition; it also is nicer for embroidery that will worn against the skin. We use Supersoft 1.5 oz. from American Embroidery Supply.

[Sewfly]

Mike,

Do you remember the brand of fusible cutaway you had the best results with as well as the weight?

Thanks,

Susan