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  • Golf Towels

    Hoping someone can help me with golf towels. I'm using "Towel Plus" by Anvil from Broder. I've read a few posts already. I have an XT and would like to know:

    1. how many clicks up?

    2. auto feed lower limit

    3. why so much lint on the bobbin?

    the design has a small patch like insignia surrounded by lettering that is:

    .25 tall
    I increased the pull comp to 115
    I set the density to 4.7

    I've tried all these recommedations and still get a lot of thread breaks?

    Any suggestions would really be appreciated. I will be doing about 200 towels.
    thanks in advance,

    Yan
    [email protected]

  • #2
    and of course I am using solvy and using no backing...

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    • #3
      NO backing? Not sure how that works... With towels, you will never avoid the lint--it's coming from the towels and can't be avoided.

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      • #4
        Also increase your material thickness setting maybe 6-8.

        I would use a setting of +4 or 5 Points on the pull compensation rather then a percentage I would leave that at 100% and add points universally. This can help alot with thread breaks.
        It looks bad on the screen but stitches out great on thicker material.

        as far as the lint the towels are cotton, and it is the nature of the beast.
        Keep a can of air handy and blow out frequently.

        You are using Poly thread not cotton correct?
        [email protected]
        Jerome in Minnesota
        (320)259-1151

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        • #5
          You should be using a backing tearaway at least.
          [email protected]
          Jerome in Minnesota
          (320)259-1151

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          • #6
            from what towels I've done...tearaway backing, pressor foot all the way down and up one click, lettering (especially that small) should be 5.5 or 6.5 if that's where some breaks are, no additional underlayment on letters-just what is digitized in, then slow your speed down...your pressor foot is trying to mash down a whole bunch of loopy threads while the needle is trying to go through-slower speed=less break possibility. Start around 700 and slowly increase 50 spm at a time until breaks happen, then back down 50 and stay there.

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            • #7
              I'm adding the backing. So no double zig zag underlay? Zig zag underlay. Thanks for such quick responses. I'm trying them now!

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              • #8
                Its sewing out right now. We shall see. I've owned my XT for 1 1/2 years. The same length as my embroidery knowledge. The only settings I really ever change are:

                Auto feed lower limit and the presser wheel.

                I've never changed the "material thickness" before. It makes sense to change it. I certainly get my fair share of thread breaks. What other settings are normal to "tweek" embroidering items from hats, golf shirts, etc... In the Amaya OS "settings" field.

                thanks again all!

                Yan

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                • #9
                  I went from about 7 thread breaks down to 0! Thanks! I wish I had a list of settings for different items - "tweeks". Any list out there?

                  Question about the solvy - Once its done sewing - tear it away and then spray with water, dab with a sponge?

                  Do you guys tear away every last piece of tearaway backing - even in the tiny letters?

                  thanks again!

                  yan
                  [email protected]

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                  • #10
                    Hi Yan,

                    It isn't often you need to change material thickness. If you have auto actifeed, let that do its job for you. If you are sewing something thick like bath towels, thick jackets, etc. then you may need to increase a number or two. Just remember that the intent is to hold the garment down flat so there is no flagging and no air between the presser foot and the needleplate. Otherwise you will get false threadbreaks because the machine can't sense the pressure.

                    Regarding Solvy, yes, tear away what you can and then spritz the garment with water and use the Solvy that you tore away and "dab" it on the areas where Solvy was left on the garment. Keep the Solvy turning in your hand so it doesn't get too wet or you will have a sticky mess however. Just lightly spray with water and then "dab" it with the larger pieces of Solvy. Kind of like taking gum off of little kids using more gum.

                    Tearaway---just tear away what is quick and easy. The rest will disappear as the garment is washed. You are in this business to make money and time is money. You don't have the time to sit there and pick every little piece away.

                    Sharon Springer
                    Certified tech & trainer<br />208-898-4117

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                    • #11
                      Good work! Isn't it nice when things work right for a change?
                      Solvy-just dab with a damp cloth or sponge, don't mist the towel-it won't dry fast. For speed removal, we use a handheld 'clothing' steamer-works great.
                      Tearaway...before you start picking it out, grab the towel on each side of the design and 'pull' enough to straighten out the puckers-and most of the backing should almost fall out. Try using a toothbrush to get it out fast-otherwise if you have nothing better to do than sit there and nit pick, grab some tweezers and get **** retentive about 'every single little piece' while you wait for the next one to sew out. Trust me, after the first couple dozen you won't be so picky...LOL

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                      • #12
                        Thank you all for your incredible help! Can't believe I don't have to wait for the next thread break! All of your advise worked flawlessly!

                        Cheers!

                        Yan

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