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Could the cap frame be my problem?

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  • Could the cap frame be my problem?

    I have a HORRIBLE time with hats. I have watched the video about 1000 times. I ruin more hats than I make. I actually break out in sweats when a potential customer asks me if I do hats.

    I have tried cheap and expensive, doesn't matter. Ever since I got my machine almost 4 years ago, I have always had a suspicion that my cap frames are the issue. I know that sounds wierd, but I cannot keep a hat from moving during the stitch process unless the hat bill is under the "bill stop" on the cap frame. In the video he says "not like this, but like this" where he shows to not bend it under the stop. To just butt the bill up to it. then take the strap and bring it across the front of the hat. I do that and then the strap does not "mesh" with the grabby parts on the frame.

    This is so hard to explain!!!! With the strap teeth into the seam and connected but not clipped shut, I then take the hat and bill and push it under the stop, then clip the clamp shut. When I go to put the bill in the bill clamp, it pushes the hat back up to where the teeth then come up together and hold the hat in place. The bill is then bent very badly and alot of times it will rub on the machine when stitching. I have to put tape on the bill to keep it from being rubbed so bad that the hat is ruined. I know that this should not be the way it is done. But absolutely every single time that I do it like the video, it is a ruined hat.
    This is on small designs and larger designs.

    So ---I am thinking that maybe it is the cap frame. Of course Melco when I approached them was of course it is all me. After 4 years of this it is always the same result. either bend the cap out of shape or have a ruined hat! PLUS I cannot get a design that has a straight bottom..... to be straight. It will curve ever so slightly up on one side. the cap will look straight. the strap will be straight across the seam, but always curved.
    I hate to get new cap frames at over $200 a piece! But not sure what else to try. This should not be this difficult! Sorry, I hope that maybe someone can understand what I am saying. If not, well I guess I got to vent.
    Thanks for anyone willing to listen.
    Melinda
    Melinda Holm<br />Embroidered Creations

  • #2
    I broke down and got the old style hat hoops. What a joy. Of course, they are not 180 deg frames, but I really don't have many of them.

    How tall are your designs? 2 1/2" max!!! If a customer wants taller than that I tell them to find someone else.

    Melco really needs to get make another style hat hoop. There is just too much trouble with the current one.

    Do you live clpse enough to anyone to get together for a little mutual learning?
    Juli in Kona<br />Stitches in Paradise

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    • #3
      Are you close to Tucson?
      Gabi<br />Gabi Kat Embroidery Emporium<br />Tucson, AZ

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      • #4
        Juli is right... I sent you a private message, but we too got the old style, much more user friendly.

        Good Luck!

        Laurie

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        • #5
          Before you go to the expense of buying new hoops...find someone else close to you that would do some hats with YOUR hoops on THEIR machine and see what happens! If they are close enough that you don't have to ship the hoops to them but can bring them over yourself, maybe they can help you out with some 'this is how I do it' training!
          I know if you were close enough to us I'd be more than happy to do it...and I also hate hats but only because we just can't make enough of them per hour to make a decent profit...
          as for distorting the hat, you DO have to 'flatten' out that brim to get it to stay down-but don't worry-it comes back into shape after you are done with it. Just have to 'roll' it with your hand and the shape is back. Works for us. And if the hat is properly hooped, the brim should not rub on the back of the needle head. The WACF frame has the 'clamp' for it-and if you use the CCF (old style) hat hoop like we do, you can buy a 'conversion' kit that is mini 'bungee cord' setup that works great. That's all we use here-the WACF is under the counter in a box somewhere collecting dust...

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          • #6
            Amen to that! And another simple thing I made is a bill mitten. I just traced the shape of a bill, cut out two of them from scrap material (an old shirt will do) a little larger than the trace and sewed the two pieces together around the curved edge. I now just put on the mitten so that when it rubs, it doesn't damage the hat. No more eating hats that have the rub mark!
            Juli in Kona<br />Stitches in Paradise

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            • #7
              Juli- the "bill mitten"- brilliant!!! I'll make us some very soon! Absolutely brilliant- thanks so much. BTW- all the stuff said about running caps on the Amayas, I agree- too much of a pain in the butt- the "other" manufacturers have done so much better.
              Gregory

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              • #8
                Another quick and easy (and cheap) thing to use is a couple pieces of painters masking tape across the bill. Rod and I have done this for years and it works. It can be re-used over and over until the sticky is gone as well. Just another idea... I had entertained the idea of a "bill mitten" idea several years ago but found bills to be of different shapes and sizes so gave that one up.
                Sharon
                Certified tech & trainer<br />208-898-4117

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                • #9
                  Could you take pictures of the steps so we can see how the hat is hooped. I am having a hard time visualizing what you are telling us.
                  Margaret
                  Wishes In Stitches Embroidery<br />4502 W. Buffalo Street<br />Chandler, Arizona 85226<br />480-216-3163

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                  • #10
                    I only have one size - XL. It "fits" them all.
                    Juli in Kona<br />Stitches in Paradise

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                    • #11
                      Melinda,
                      I agree, the current Wide Angle Cap Frames are not user intuitive. But you should have learned how to work with them in the training class.
                      Were you able to attend a training class or have a trainer come to you??
                      I hate to hear you're struggling with caps. I am able to sew them without any troubles.

                      Ed
                      -The Embroidery Authority-<br /><br />\"Turning your Problems into Production.\"<br />Ed Orantes<br />504-258-6260

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                      • #12
                        We use Masking tape on the bill too!
                        I would have nevr thought of something like the "bill mitten" Kuddos!

                        Laurie

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                        • #13
                          I have to admit that my friend on Oahu sent me bill mitten. And I made the other. Very primitive looking - I just pinked the raw edges. I do almost all my hats on my Happy Voyager. Have that machine set up for hats and don't like to change it - too much trouble. BUT I just bought a SlimLine base for the Happy so I can do this one big job I keep getting where I do two designs near the edges of the fabric. Slim line is just perfect for that. So I will be changing out the hatp hoop for the Slim Line.
                          Juli in Kona<br />Stitches in Paradise

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                          • #14
                            Melinda,

                            It may be that your "Bill Clamp Assembly" is bent forward. So even if you are hooping your cap correctly, you will pull the bill closer to the back of the grabebr when you clamp it down.

                            The plate that the clamp is attached to can be pulled forward over time and occasionally needs to be bent back.

                            Also, I'm sure you have spoken to Melco about this but are you certain that you have the correct Cap Driver selected?

                            Depending on which Cap Driver you have, "Wacf", or "Extended", you would have a differnt sewing area.The XT machine were originally built and shipped with Wacf and only later where shipped with the Extended Wacf.

                            Having the wrong Cap Driver selected will display the wrong sewing field on your screen.

                            As far as the bill being damaged by the grabber, Try to avoid Needles 1,2 15 and 16 when sewing colors that are close to the bill, that will reduces the chance of the corners on the grabber catching the bill.

                            Another possibility is your cap driver may not have been set up properly from the start on your machine.

                            Feel free to call me and I'll be happy to help you check those settings.

                            Hugo Torbidoni
                            Melco Tech
                            301-471-3157
                            Hugo Torbidoni<br />HT Embroidery & Machine Repair<br />Certified Melco Technician<br />301-471-3157

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