hats wacf

[Knehmer]

In the process of doing my first hat. The gal I bought the machine from said to always put in a fresh bobbin when doing hats--"no option" she said. Is that just because it's a PITA to change a bobbin when doing a hat, or is there another reason?

[Knehmer]

Me again. Don't seem to have the needle plate for hats--do I really need it? On my other embroidery machine it said to use one, but nearly every one I know discovered it was not necessary, and just a problem, really.

[levelbest]

If you are satisfied with the results - then the answer is no. We have original Amayas and never use them. In fact, we get needle breaks with them occasionally, and almost NEVER break a needle without.

[levelbest]

Oh, and if you have plenty of bobbin left, no reason to change.

[Laurie]

I would recommend checking your bobbin before starting a hat as yes, it is a HUGE PITA to change with a hat on there. But to change it each time seems rather silly.

Just my thoughts-

laurie

[The Embroidery Authority - OLD]

Sometimes, people give you advice without explanation. This is where I try to set myself apart from other embroidery trainers.

The reason the person told you to always start off with a new bobbin with hats is this:

It's virtually impossible to remove and reinstall the bobbin case in and out of the bobbin basket without having to remove the cap frame from the machine AND/OR possibly shifting the registration of the cap in the middle of sewing the design. This is due to the fact that the cap surrounds the end of the sewing arm where the bobbin case is installed.
Visors wouldn't present this problem as their tops are open.

Personally, I don't think you need to start with a "brand new bobbin" on every hat but you certainly want to be aware of the amount of bobbin present before you start. If you do happen to run out of bobbin in the middle of the design on a cap, remove the cap frame from the machine very carefully ensuring that you don't shift the material of the cap in any direction minimizing registration issues.

Now, after all that typing, I see why they said "always start with a new bobbin" and nothing else. Phewwwww!!!!

Ed
(Seriously,.. glad I can type fast.)

[Jenny]

Ditto Ed...Ed is right...Don and I were told in our training to make sure we have enough bobbin before installing a cap due to this problem. With visors it's not a problem but as Ed said, you can't get to the bobbin with the cap on to change it if it runs out...Don and I try to keep an eye on the bobbin when doing caps so as not to run out during a sewout...if we are not sure if there is enough bobbin left on it for the next cap we change the bobbin...have a great day and until next time...

Jenny
Westbrook Wonders

[signman]

Ed, oh great and mystical wonder...LOL...explain to me how in the world to do visors? I still have a case of them for the local alumni group-and I've tried hooping them...and end up with less than 1" of space to embroider, if that much! No matter how I hoop, hats or anything-I cannot get sewing within 3/4" of the brim-very limiting on these visors. I so want to get these done I'd pay someone else if they could do it...
Roland

[The Embroidery Authority - OLD]

Great and Mystical Wonder...

Yep, that about sums it up!

You really want to know the secret?

You r e a l l y want to know the secret to sewing visors???

.......

Well, folks. For only $19.95 a month, you too can get my embroidery secrets in this leather bound pamphlet entitled "The Wondrous Secrets of the World - according to Ed". Every month following, you'll receive some old chewing gum wrappers. Marvel in the........


I can't go on with that. It's just wrong.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iT89qfDx3yM

Ed

[The Embroidery Authority - OLD]

There's really no secret, it's just needs to be explained by a trainer who "cares".

Seriously guys,
And this applies to caps as well..

When it comes to visors, you will want to tilt, rotate, pivot (whatever word you choose) the visor/cap on whatever angle is necessary to ensure the sewing surface of the visor/cap is parallel and flat to the needleplate. Just like when we sew "flats".
Also use a stiff piece of cap backing no less than 8.5 inches (or so) wide so that it wraps at least halfway around the circular frame and held in place by the strap. If your cap backing isn't stiff enough, use two pieces. I've even used a sheet of printer paper folded in three (like a letter envelope) when cap backing wasn't available.
Use a sharp needle, either a 75/11 or 80/12 and slow the machine down to minimize what I call, the "Shimmy Factor" or side to side shaking of the cap. The tighter you hoop the visor/cap in combination with the backing, this will dramatically reduce the "Shimmy Factor". The less shimmy, the faster you can sew. Structured caps will have less shimmy than unstructured caps due to the buckram applied within.
Forget about sewing the front and the sides in one pass. If you choose to sew the sides of the cap/visor, hoop it again without the necessary "tilt" used to sew the front. This way the sides won't sew out crooked. Personally, I like using fast frames to sew the sides of a cap.
I like sewing visors as they rarely have the center seam which can reak havoc on many designs. Of course it's true that given the unique size of YOUR visor, you might have to alter your design if 2 inches is too tall. This will vary with each model of visor. I think visors look best with simple, little designs and lettering. That's just my opinion.
Oh, and just in case I didn't say it before,...
Get that sucker tight under that strap. Tight enough that you break a sweat but not so tight that you break the cap frame!

Good luck.
Ed Orantes

[Laurie]

roflmao!!!!!!! Ed you are too funny!

Laurie [img]smile.gif[/img]

[signman]

Ed...the visors I have don't have much for height, and all I need is 'Stevens Alumni' in college block, black lettering. You offering to do them for me? Hint, hint, nudge, nudge...not sure how many there are but I've been sitting on them for 3 years. Donating them to the group-I"m on the board so I give them stuff to sell for fundraisers. Totebags, sweatshirts, etc.-some I charge for, some I just run off a batch to try something new and they sell them at parades. Oldest continually operating High School Alumni Association in the US...I believe 2nd oldest in the world. And some of the board members look like they've been there since the beginning...LOL...I'm one of the YOUNGER board members! I graduated in 1971, the 100th class...so you see how old the board is!
Roland

[Wayne]

When I do visors I hoop a pc. of FIRM backing under the visor (backing is not an embroidery sold backing) and then I tape the top part of the visor to the hooped backing.
This helps hold the visor in place. Remove and trim backing and you are goos to go.