Suggestions needed

[Laurie]

I have a problem...

As I have mentioned in another note, we are preparing for a trade show and doing some give aways. I have 3 doz caps I am doing and we thought that the ladies might prefer something different and purchase a Fleece Headband.

I have tried everything I can think of, from altering our logo, to only putting our name, to NUMEROUS different types of backing and I can not get a decent stitchout!!
Because of the 'stretchiness" of the actual product, everything is looking well, like crap!

Any suggestions??
We even tried vinyl and it to pulls and cracks!
Im open to anything, otherwise I guess we will have to staple a business card to them when we give them away! [img]tongue.gif[/img]

Thanks guys!
Laurie

[Wayne]

Try glueing in a heavy backing in the caps.
I glue in a heavy backing in all my unconstructed caps. Makes them a lot more stable.

Wayne

[Laurie]

not the caps Wayne.
the caps look great!!

The fleece headbands is what I am trying to figure out. It just is not working at all!!

Thanks!

[Impressive Threads]

I recently did fleece beenies for a customer and to make the logo look good, I laid down a layer of stitches the same color as the fleece to tamper it down. This is a fill with trapano with a density of 15. This actually provides a base for your design stitches and keeps them from sinking into the fleece.I basically outline the entire design to make the fill stitched base.

Cindy

[Laurie]

Cindy!!

That is a great idea... I might have to try that! Thanks!

Laurie

[Wayne]

Sorry about that Laurie.
Read the post to fast.

Are you using Water Soluble Topping on top?

I did 50 beanies at Xmas. and had no problem.

Wayne

[cjk]

I've done fleece headbands and beanies and the main thing I've found is like Wayne said to use a water soluble topping on top. That keeps the stitches from sinking in. I think I also used a mesh type cutaway on the back. Hope this helps. Cheryl

[sschroed2]

Gunold carries a Fabric Solvy (topping) I've found it to be absolutely the best for Beanies. It holds the stitches on top better than the regular solvy. and I also use the mesh backing.
Sue

[Bill C @ Fineline]

We use sticky back tearaway with toping on top and hoop beanies or headbands with thr reg. round or square hoops. We put all kinds of designs on them including lettering. We turn the beanie inside out and stick on a 3-4in piece of backing on, invert and hoop w/topping. leave some of the backing stick out so u can see the edge and to mark the center. Quick and works good. measure up from the edge at the machine to the red dot & move to where u want the design, trace and go. Bill

[Barbara Bunker]

FabriSolvy is the same thing as AquaMagic and Vilene.

As I learned from Fred several years ago, the best thing for knits is two layers of the nylon mesh. Then I trim about a quarter-inch from the design.

Barb in Broomfield
BMB Custom Embroidery

[flebow]

For the fleece headbands - one or 2 layers, dependiing on the stitch count and density, of our washaway aka mistakenly as Vilene
The fibers of the stabilizer , thread and fllece will become tightly entangled = Good definition

"As I learned from Fred several years ago, the best thing for knits is two layers of the nylon mesh. Then I trim about a quarter-inch from the design. "

Barb in Broomfield
BMB Custom Embroidery

Barb
Thanks
At least someone listens to me - Perhaps you can speak to my wife and daughter?
Fred

[flebow]

And as always - If you want samples - Pls e-mail me direct off list

Fred

[signman]

Wayne, gluing in a heavy backing defeats the purpose of the unstructured caps...they should still be 'unstructured' when done or you have created a 'structured' hat. I use the basic hat hoop, not the wide angle, and a roll of stiff tearaway for backing. Set the backing in the hoop, pull the hat down snug and tight (see the video on hat hooping) and away we go. Then you can tear away all the excess backing and still have an unstructured 'floppy' hat. 90% of the hats we do are 'unstructured'...and as long as you set up your design from bottom up, center out, it should run fine. AND with the XT, we find that we have been running hats with it set at 1200...not deliberately, just forget to drop the speed down from the last job. Still runs great!
But hats should be done around 900.

[Wayne]

I trim off the excess backing.
The backing I use is very stable and not an embroidery supplied backing. Works for me and really works well on constructed caps when they aren't cut and sewed to lay flat on the hoop.

[Laurie]

thanks for all teh additional advice...
I have done Beanies and had no problem, these things are jsut crazy! They are from Outdoor Cap and are part of the Moisture Managment stuff.
"Q3" (quick wick / quick cool / quick dry)
its almost like they have a spandex or something in them.... they are STRETCHY!!
I am going to try putting a slight base under my design as Cindy suggested, otherwise, we have some cute blank white (w/blk trim) headbands to give away... [img]tongue.gif[/img]

Laurie