Embroidering Barber Capes

[levelbest]

Suggestions on the best way to go about this? We have a few that were sent to us and while a good many turned out well, a few almost seemed to cutout the logo into the cape (you know, hold it up to a light and you could see the needle protrusions).

It's kind of a mixture between a wind breaker and a microfiber. I think some of the problem is that these are not new but suggestions are welcome.

[levelbest]

Anyone, Anyone, Bueller, Anyone? Suggestions, Anyone?

[FME540]

John,

I'll take a shot at this.

This sounds a lot like the problem with sewing on leather jackets. If you have too many stitches around the edge of the design it will almost punch out when done.

Reduce the density of your stitching. Open it up to the limit of acceptable coverage. That limit will vary depending on the color of the capes and the threads used in the design but a starting point would be 6.0 and above. Turn off the underlay on your columns and fills. When doing light fills you should use the trapunto setting so the travel stitches are at the edge of the fills, not through the middle. Same thing with the columns. When using lighter density pay attention to the look of the underlay or just turn it off.

Of course smaller needles will also help, 65 or so as a start

Hope this helps. Or at least bump starts the discussion.

[signman]

John, if you have the same 'commercial' cape that a client brought me to screenprint years ago-it isn't a textile-so there is no 'weave' of threads. It's pure poly-like a vinyl or plastic, that may have a 'pattern' to simulate thread. Look close, I mean real close at it-can you pull the fabric and see separate threads? If you can't-then it's like a plastic bag-and embroidery is going to do nothing more than create thousands of 'holes' just like perforations in paper towels. One good yank, and that embroidery will pull right out like a 'patch'.
Like he says for leather-you are going to have trouble. If this is the material you have...I personally would say no...because they are not going to last long. Easier to sublimate or direct print. Very slight chance-if you have a 'used one' to play on-after embroidery, from the back-run around the holes with stitch saver (or super glue) and it should 'bond' the material back together.
As for embroidery on 'used' items...well...from experience...best not to. Only good thing about 'used' and washed items-if they are going to shrink-they already have. You don't have to worry about puckering!
Good luck.
Roland

[levelbest]

We have the 65 needles are wer thinking of using them. Would you go ballpoint or sharp? I think stacey was using ballpoints.

[levelbest]

Sharps or Ballpoint?

[Ian]

John,
Sharps and lower density should do it. Also, depending on the design, using the "proximity" filter would help. Just like leather, vinyl will not heal the penetrations, so simple low contrast designs will be your best bet. Also, I would use a cut-away backing and slow the speed a bit.

Ian

[Greenwing]

Ok I have not seen that you said it is Vinyl.
if it is a Fabric the is Woven you should be usin ball point and lowering to density.
A ball point will cut fa fewer threads then a sharp.
I have not stitched on barber capes but the way you discribe the material it sound like the Shower cirtin material for a motel I did.
and I used a 9/65 bp needle and reduced the denisty of there logo by 20-30% and it went great.

Sharps just made the design into patches as they fell out.

[Greenwing]

Here is that post with some of the type-O's removed
sorry
Ok I have not seen that you said it is Vinyl.
if it is a Fabric that is Woven you should be using ball point and lowering the density.
A ball point will cut far fewer threads then a sharp.
I have not stitched on barber capes but the way you discribe the material it sound like the Shower curtin material I did for a motel.
I used a 9/65 bp needle and reduced the denisty of there logo by 20-30% and it went great.

Sharps just made the design into patches as they fell out