big jacket back

[cmack]

As soon as all of my supplies are here, I am going to take on my most detailed jacket back yet. over 90 thousand stitches, 11 colors and 26 color changes.

Any advice from the pros??

[cmack]

Kind of nervous.....

[Wishes]

Before beginning stitch it out on a similar fabric. I usually purchase a remenant of cheap vinyl or synthetic leather or a similar weight of the jacket. We always do a test even on somthing so big. It nice to keep a sample to show customers. You could also go to a used clothing store and purchase a similar garment.
margaret

[flebow]

As far a stabilizer - I would suggest One or 2 layers of a 3 oz "wet laid" dense non woven cutaway
or
2 layers of the no show diagonal mesh- cross patterned

Pls feel free to e-mail me direct for samples for your own trials

Fred

[Steve]

In reference to flebows post, there are several factors that go into picking the correct backing for the job. The major factor is type of material and jacket lining. Make sure the jacket and lining are taught and lined up properly.

[signman]

What do you have to teach them? LOL...

years of proofreading...you mean 'taut'...don't you!
Can't resist it...
But Steve is right-if you have an inner lining it can 'move' around under the jacket back and once sewn-it's there to stay. Customers don't like it if the lining is pulling to one side when they put it on. Jackets with the 'sew port' (zipper hidden in a seam) help avoid this. Or if you can undo a hem from the bottom, slide your hoop and backing inside there-you will never see it.
Or last resort-open up the hem, pull the lining away from the back-and spray some adhesive in there lightly-and smooth the liner back into place before hooping. That will keep the liner where it belongs.

[Dorothy Compton]

What type of jacket? I do hundreds of letterman's jackets a year, mostly stitching through the lining. The fabric is very stable so I never use any backing. I do make sure the hoop is very tight; the weight of the jacket can cause the hoop to pop off and after even a few thousand stitches, that can be a very tough fix. Many of the designs I use run over 100k, not counting the lettering on top and bottom. If you're doing such a jacket, hoop slightly loose, pull the fabric to ensure it's taut (pull the hoop up slightly on each side to do this....both left and right from the topside--flip the jacket and do the same with the bottom side with the lining). Then tighten the screw, as they say, girl tight with a screw driver.

Good Luck.

Dorothy

[flebow]

"In reference to flebows post, there are several factors that go into picking the correct backing for the job. The major factor is type of material and jacket lining. Make sure the jacket and lining are taught and lined up properly."

I could not agree more but there is a happy medium that approaches a "tambourine skin" type tension - but w a jacket that dhould not be a problem


"The fabric is very stable so I never use any backing. I do make sure the hoop is very tight"

Dorothy - I am sorry to contradict you here and I do so respectfully as I do not embroider - I make stabilizers- but I think that if you us ed a "wet laid" non directioonal tearaway or a cutaway you would notice a sharper increase in definition esp w fine lettering.

Pls note that everyone does things differentyly and what works for opne will not necessarily work for the other
DO you do your own digitizing?
If so that would be a factor

Can I send you a big piece of tearaway to try on your next jacket back (of course - free)

Fortunately for my career - even on a Carhartt jacket you "should" use a stabilizer.
Carhartt when they were in KY used a 1.5 oz tearaway.
It adds definition


Fred