Trimming Patches

[EarlsEmbroidery]

Looking for the best way to trim intricately shaped large patches. I have been using a wood tool but it only works if i am using black base since it burns the fabric. any other color seems to show the burn edged.
is there a basic cheap laser cutter or hot knife that anyone has used with good results? im tired of accidentally burning the merror borders and just need an overall way to improve my finished edges. I do lots of large motorcycle club patches. thanks

[Judy]

If your edges are merrowed (Sewn on a merrow machine) wouldn't they be trimmed? (I get confused easily...!!) Are they satin stitched on the Ayama as an applique? If they are, I trim away the backing by pulling to enlarge the needle holes and gently pushing a seam ripper through.

[EarlsEmbroidery]

its not a true merrow border. I just use a dense satin stitch to finish it off. I guess im looking for a way to get a laser precision edge without the expense of some of the laser systems i have seen. is that possible.

[Judy]

Are you using the applique technique to make your patches, or are you seing them and then cutting them out of the fabric? The applique technique and using a ripper to separate the backing works pretty well.

[EarlsEmbroidery]

sewing them , then cutting them out of the fabric. they run about 13 x 16 in size and shapes vary too.

[Judy]

I have a club I do patches for as well. Using the applique will give you the best results. I like sewing and then cutting, but the edge leaves something to be desired just slapping around out there...!!

[EarlsEmbroidery]

Im not familiar with the applique technique for patches. how does it work? i know how appliques work but would i need my digitizer to make an applique placement stitch? i get really nervous about direct sewing to the leather vests. can you tell me how it works....i guess i can try that method for now. i certainly cant afford a laser.

[Judy]

Not to worry...no embroidery on a leather vest required!

You'll need a running outline stitch in the outline shape of your patch. It needs to be just a VERY TINY BIT smaller than your patch -- maybe one or two thread widths, but no more.

Hoop a piece of fabric and backing, and sew the outline.

Stop machine.

Remove fabric.

CUT ON STITCHING.

Hoop backing.

Sew running outline stitch. It should be included with your patch design as the first color.

Stop machine.

Use sticky spray to adhere the black, cut-out fabric to the backing exactly over the running outline stitch of the patch shape.

The next thing your machine should do is the tackdown stitch. I sew mine at a density of 25. It seems to help eliminate the edge curl.

Then it does the edges.

Then it does the patch.

If you have a really really big patch and are worried the backing will pull away from the eding before it's done. You can do this kind of in reverse.

By that I mean:

Do all of the interior stitching on the patch first.

Do the running outline stitch next.

Stop machine, unhoop and cut.

Hoop new backing, do running outline, spray and place patch, then do outline stitch and remove.

HTH,
Judy

[EarlsEmbroidery]

Okay,
thank you...ill have to print out these instructions and try that. I even looked at some of the less expensive table top lasers and they are even too small for these patches....not that i wanted to spend 5k anyway. LOL. thank you so much.

[Wayne]

I use the applique method but I glue the fabric to a hooped pc. of backing, then sew the design and running outline stitch and then trim.

When possible if you use heavy tearaway backing this keeps from having to cut away the patch.
On patches that you use cutaway on and patches that are hard to cut around I use a SHARP Exacto Knife to cut.

On all cutaway and tearaway patches you will have the white (if you use white backing) backing showing white around the outside edges. What I do is use a wide felt tip permanent marker the same color as the border and go all around the patch to hide the white from showing.

Whenever you can use black border and black backing for this works much better.

After I do the running outline stitch I remove the hoop and trim off any extra material from outside the running stitch. I then spray glue another pc. of backing under the hooped patch, then put on machine and sew the satin stitch.
This hides all the backing thread that is on the patch.

I put all my patches under a heat press for one minute. This makes them nice and smooth and if any loose threads are on the patch it packs them down flat.

Wayne