Embroidering on a polo - HELP

[Eye Kandy Designs]

GF (or anyone that can answer this) when you say "Lower Actifeed Settings to this: 45/101/5/4" are you referring to Settings -> Thread Feed?

[GF]

Yes R.J.; that is where you change the settings.

[flebow]

I am glad to help.

Your stitch count is not too high nor dense
One layer of a wet laid 2 oz cutaway maybe 2.5 will suffice
This would at least help to eliminate stabilizing as your problem which may lie elsewhere (digitizing- tensions - tension when hooping) Others may help you better w these
But at least you know it will not be the stabilizer

Fred

"So you guys have tossed a lot of tips out above but I think I have put everything out on the table now for you to see what I am doing and my results...so based on these any suggestions? Going to try some of the settings Steve and GF have suggested now and Fred look out for an email from me later today."

[The Embroidery Authority - OLD]

Richard,
I believe you have a combination type of problem.
First, you are sewing on Pique' fabric - also known as "Polo Shirt" fabric - understanding there are several grades of such and is one of the least easiest fabrics to embroider on.

Second and more importantly, you say you converted vector art into stitches. This is where you might need to focus your attention. I've always told folks that if they were going to use the "auto digitizing" feature in the software, they should be prepared to edit the file as necessary should they not get the results their looking for on the first go 'round.
If you are not familiar with the editing tools and how to use them in Design Shop, I suggest you not look to the "convert to stitches" feature as your first choice for digitizing. Understand that I say this not to insult, but more out of sincerity for your success. I know many digitizers who use other brands of software who say the same thing about "auto digitizing" in general so know this is not a Design Shop issue.

First of all, when you start to deal with small lettering, you are venturing into very difficult territory for many embroiderers. So don't loose the faith but be willing for many late nights filled with practice, practice, practice.

Some things you need to consider is that when you specify that the lettering is .4" tall, that is referring to the capital letters involved. The lower case letters are even smaller which can make your settings a little different when working on a small scale.

When it come's to alignment of letters, one has to appreciate the "pull" factor and this will be affected by a number of things such as density, backing, underlay, quality of shirt fiber, and so on. This is where the practice come into play.

However, I believe your design is most probably sub-par. If you'd like to send it to me, I'd be happy to take a look at it and tell you more.

In short, I would suggest you stick to using the EA Fonts (Embroidery Alphabets) and OA (Operator Alphabets) listed in Design Shop if you are looking for accuracy in quickly typed lettering. All bets are off on the True Type Fonts (TT). Some will sew out well, others, not so much. If the logo is that important, you may choose to have it hand digitized by someone with experience as opposed to using the lettering tool feature. (Sometimes you just can't find the specific font you're looking for in Melco's long list of fonts.)
I'm also wondering what version of Design Shop are you using? You can click on "Help" and then "About" to find this number. (ex. 7.00.014)

I have a design I quickly threw together for you and I will send it to your email address at [email protected].
Let us know how it looks in comparison.

Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Ed Orantes

[Eye Kandy Designs]

Ed I sent you a reply via email...not sure if you got it...but I greatly appreciate what you did...check your junk email though if you didn't get it yet.