embroidery velvet stocking cuff - 2 layers

[Anita]

Any suggestions for securing the 2 layers of velvet of a Christmas stocking cuff?

For a test sewout, I'm using an adhesive backing in a slimline window. I'm pinning down all four sides with long quilting pins and using a soluble topping to keep the stitches from sinking into the velvet. Even still, there's some shifting...above acceptable, but not perfect.

Thanks!
Anita

[Greenwing]

I suppose they are made so you can't Uncuff the top and then turn inside out and Embroider?

[Anita]

I'm uncuffing it, but it's 2 layers even still.

I was actually thinking of removing it from the stocking and stitching thru just one layer and then reattaching it.

[susan]

Anita,
I would keep using the pins and then add a basting stitch around the area to be embroidered. Just do a long walk stitch and then do the regular embroidering. The basting stitch really helps stop that movement and as long as you use long walk stitches, it is easy to remove.

Susan

[Terri H]

As you mentioned detaching the cuff would probably give you the best embroidery. Aside from that I'd try hand basting with a cross hatch pattern through both layers in the color of the fabric.

Terri
Embroidery Creations

[Wishes]

I would place a background under the lettering. A fill with an underlay. Density at about 30. That give a crosshatch look. Put your lettering on top in the contrasting color. I usually turn the stocking inside out and stitch on a slimline frame. It keep the nap down. Works well on think furry cuffs also.
Margaret

[Anita]

I don't know why I didn't think of basting it. That would have worked without removing the cuff. Though pins worked pretty well on the scrap velvet that I tested with, they were in the way trying to manipulate it to stitch on the cuff.

I sew and quilt, so it wasn't a problem to sew it back on...but removing it was time consuming. Not much profit that way, but in the end it looks pretty good.

Thanks all for your responses. I think I'll test them out to see what works for me...so next time I can see a profit from it.

Anita

[signman]

If your lettering is large enough, I create a manual 'stitch line' using the normal stitch 'tool' and just run a centerline following the letters without stopping-on the white furry cuffs I use white thread. This will tie your two layers together before any satin stitching (the letters) that causes the shifting. Also ties down the long fur to keep it out of the way as you do the letters.
Tried doing 'background' fills and it made it look like a 'patch' so I went to just the 'centerline' (don't do it as an 'underlayment' in the lettering properties). The idea is to do the entire word at once-not letter by letter.