adjusting pull compensation

[cjk]

Hello! I have a question about adjusting the pull compensation in design shop pro. My pattern is a dark green corvette that the customer wants on a light pink, stretchy knit shirt. Its a stock pattern in exp format. I seem to be having trouble with the pink showing through. I have tried doubling the stabilizer, using solvy, using sticky tearaway with cutaway floated under it etc without any luck. I was attempting to adjust the pull compensation in ds, but I'm not sure what I should set it too. I don't seem to have the option of adjusting the fill itself, the only place I can find to adjust the pull or density is under the scale tab. Anyway, I need some guidelines as to how much to set it too? Any ideas? Thanks, Cheryl

[Barbara Bunker]

In DS, the compensation adjustment is on the Fill tab, at the bottom. The default setting is 100%; it will let you change it up to 110%, I think.

Barb

[Barbara Bunker]

One other thought...

I just finished embroidering some designs that had the initial underlay stitched in the same color as the fabric so it stabilized and flattened out the design area but didn't interfere with the flow of the stitches of the actual colors.

Barb

[cjk]

Its an exp format stock design. The fill tab isn't available. ck

[Barbara Bunker]

Its an exp format stock design. The fill tab isn't available. ck
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Bummer. So much for stock designs. One other thought and I'm done: do you have any of the black nylon mesh? You could create an applique for that fabric just inside the outline of the corvette. The mesh wouldn't show but the pink would be covered up.

Barb

[cjk]

*lol* That thought was crossing my mind at midnight last night. Yes I do and I might just have to do that. Thanks!

[signman]

When I"ve run into problems with 'stock' designs,like you have with the shirt showing through-I manually duplicate the fill area with the pen tool, add a similar fill pattern, drop the density number down if needed, and also add an underlayment in my 'new' area. Make sure your 'in' and 'out' arrows are where they should be, put it in the stitch tree same spot as the 'original', and delete the original. Now you can control the underlayment, fill density, etc.

[Linda]

Not sure if this is possible but can't a design be turned in wireframe and be able to be adjusted somewhat. If this is possible you can lengthen the stitch length some and this helps with coverage. I had to do that with an orange design on a black coat. I had digitized the design myself but it may be worth a try.

[Rod or Sharon]

It will depend on what level of software that you have to be able to "Convert to Wireframe". To do this , if it is available to you, choose the element you are working with in the "Project Tree" on the right side of your screen, look for "Convert Object to Wireframe" and click on it. This element is now in an OFM, CND format and can be editited acordingly. If you choose an element in the project tree, right click on it and the "Convert to Wireframe" is greyed out, then your software version level is not high enough and you may have to digitize the piece again like Roland has suggested.
Be careful about just converting your entire design to wireframe. Going through any conversion process like this may/can/will change fill patterns, etc. Always work on a duplicate of your original design and not your original, so you will have it to fall back on if you make changes that don't work out. Resaving a converted exp, dst, etc does not bring pack the original pattern that may have been in a fill....if the conversion changed it.

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer

[signman]

Rod isn't kidding about working on a duplicate...many more than just a few times I"ve worked for hours to complete a design-then hit the wrong key (I"m a genetically programmed Mac user-so I always hit the wrong keys on a PC) and the program will crash-wiping out all the changes or leaving a corrupted 'original'. After doing that a few times I now make a duplicate of any design I"m working on...immediately-before any changes are made. Then I start cleaning up, fixing trouble spots (too dense letters, missing fills, etc.) and save again every couple of steps.
When I have to do a sewout test, and spot more problems-I make ANOTHER copy for those changes and keep going. This way if I really screw up something-I have the last 'test' version to fall back on and start over.
Anytime I use one of the Dakota files, or something I've paid for or another amaya user has done for me...I immediately make a copy...because if you screw up without making a copy-you have nothing to start over with!
I have a 'dual' harddrive setup-so one hard drive has the operating programs, customer files...the second hard drive has ALL my artwork files stored there-and final versions of customer files. That way if the computer craps out on drive #1, I can remove drive #2 and install it in another computer...since it is a 'storage' unit-nothing the 'drive' unit does will affect it.

[djames]

With an expanded design, you can do some scaling to the design in the scale properties tab. Down at the bottom you can change the fill density (higher number means more stitches), fill stitch length and walk/underlay stitch length. You can also change your column fill density. This is in pro+. Not sure of the other levels.
Rod is right about converting the entire design to wireframe and how it can change the fill patterns and densities etc. Remember you can select just an element to convert also rather than the whole design.
Debbie