HELP!

[phunter]

I just got my machine about two weeks ago but just came back from class on Thursday. I used the machine for the first time and everything I sew out is really tight! I think it’s a density problem but I clicked on auto density on some samples and the problem didn’t get any better. Then I raised the density number up a little and the stitches just got a little looser but its still pulling on my fabric. I like using fill instead of satin stitches, but how do I get it to not pull on my fabric?? I had a pr600 so all this is NEW to me… any tips would be great!
thanks

[signman]

Need some more info for people to help you...
what type of fabric/material are you sewing on?
In the design (go into Designshop) what are your fill densities set to? you can't change this in the Amaya operating program-so where did your raise the density number-in Amaya or Designshop?
Backing-along with what material you have, what are you using for backing?
Suggestion...
set up a hoop with 2 layers of 3 oz. backing only...
and try your design. Does it pull and pucker the backing or not? If it works on just layers of backing...then you know the problem is in the design fill densities, not in the Amaya sewing end of it.
I find that using the 'free' Dakota designs from the Treasure Chest collection that came with the program tend to have extremely low density numbers. (like 3, 3.5, etc. where I normally would set it to 4, 4.5, or higher). The lower the number the tighter the density...and that's what pulls your fabric into puckers.
Also, does it look fine in the hoop but then pucker when you remove it? That means your fabric is stretched in the hoop-you are pulling it too tight when setting the hoop.
A lot of questions instead of an answer for you, but it's the details that count!

[phunter]

I'm only doing fonts right now. i stitched out on burp clohs, then just on scrap fabric.
i am using design shop but just fonts and they are not TT

[signman]

You still go into Design Shop, right click on the line of type, go to 'properties' and find the 'density' and see what it is set at. ALSO, increase the 'pull comp', try 110% and see what happens. This setting changes the 'pull' of the thread side to side-allowing more thread with a higher percent setting. (I know, this isn't computer geek description but it's how I look at it)
If the letters get too fat, drop it 5%.
OR start with a simple name, duplicate it on the 'page' a couple times in a column.
Set the first one for 100%, next one for 105%, 110%, etc. and sew them out. This way you can see the different settings on one sewout and figure out what setting works for you. Also set your 'density' no lower than 4, next 4.3, then 4.5, etc. in a second row of the same lettering without changing the pull comp. GIves you two columns to see what happens changing only pull comp or density. Good place to start!
ANd if your burb cloth is terrycloth, sewing on that can look totally differnt than sewing on scrap shirt material, poplin, sweatshirt, etc. Each different cloth weave will act different. That's why the techs recommend a double thickness of 3 oz. backing-it's a consistant material that everyone would have-so someone on a different machine could duplicate your pattern and test it on the same type of material you would also test on.

[Rod or Sharon]

Also, when you are dealing with tight fills.....in OS, go into Settings, Threadfeed, and adjust your "Run--fill" option. What this does is command the machine to feed more thread to the stitch without lengthening or shortening the actual stitch and allow the thread to lay down looser and stay on top of the garment and not be pulled down into it so tightly......

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer

[phunter]

ok i will try these tips. i just noticed the pull comp button was locked so i unlocked it and raised it to 110%

[Juli in Kona]

The "lock" on the pull comp does not turn it on and off. It locks the horizontal and vertical pulls to each other. If you want the pull comp to only affect the stitches going left to right you unlock it and then when you put in a number, say 110, in the horizontal, it will only affect that box and not both boxes.

I like to set the pull comp to 120 when I use Athletic Swish (the first font in the list). Otherwise it is just too skinny.

Juli in Kona

[signman]

Rod..question about your not on changing Run-Fill option...will this alleviate the problems I have with designs working fine on denim, polos, but pulling tight into teeshirts?

[Rod or Sharon]

Roland,

Yes it will help but as you know, all T shirts are not created equal. They do present a challenge for the most part. It is just another tool to use and is a good one to keep embroidery fills from sinking into the material which will cause the fill to curl up after it is taken out of the hoop. Of course if the T is stretched during the hooping process...welllll... then that is another story, but.....

To use too much backing makes the embroidery/backing too heavy and the T shirt sags when worn, so we use two to three layers of polymesh, cross hatched, depending on the T quality, when ever possible. I also reduce the densities, and also reduce stitch counts as much as possible by using the Scale Factors tool in Design Shop and depending on the T shirt quality, will use a bit of sticky spray to keep them from crawling around on the backing. I really do not like the sticky backing and will only use it when nothing else will work and never on T's.

So give it a try, If the fill starts to look loopy then you have set the run fill too high and will need to back off....in Threadfeed(OS)...look at the diagram and watch the thread grow between the needle strikes on the diagram, as the number is increased....same thing is happening on the garment, only you are trying to find that happy place where the thread is just kind of laying on top of the garment and the stitch is not being pulled so tight that it is pulling on the material as it is being laid down.

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer