lettering on polos

[Nick Sam]

Hope someone can help me. When I embroider lettering on polos, it just never looks as good as I'd like. I have a 'Big Red' and usually don't have problems with thread breaks while sewing lettering. The same lettering looks great on wovens. I've tried many different fonts. Right now I'm trying Oesco at .28 - 100%, column width 130 to 140 and density 4. Underwalk - center and have tried edgewalk along with the center walk. Have tried hooping 1 cutaway backing with shirt and sliding another under hoop. Have tried temp adhesive with the first backing. Have tried slowing Big Red down to 600-700 spm. Sure could use your expertise on this. Having been working on this problem for quite a while...can anyone help??? Thank you so very much!
Deb

[Juli in Kona]

I don't have Oesco but with the capitals only just over a quarter inch tall, I'd think the 130 - 140 column width a little too much. And I'd lighten the density to 4.5 or even 5. With small letters, less is better. You might also want to try 60# thread with a #9 needle. In that case you would probably not want to lighten the density.

Juli in Kona

[Nick Sam]

Hi Juli

Thanks for your help...I'll try your suggestions. Will let you know how it goes. Does everyone have trouble making letters look good on knits??
Deb

[levelbest]

Depends on the polo. Different quality polos can sew very differently. More and more we have seen that. Really nice ones have tighter stitching and the thread lays down really well - cheaper ones have bigger "gaps" if you will and present a challenge.

For small lettering, use fonts specifically designed for that purpose. Most have underlay already built in, so don't add any if they do. Check your code sheets for minimum suggested size and instructions of what to set things at based on font size/height and experiement from there.

Backing wise, we ALWAYS use 2 pieces of cutaway. Just our experience that a great foundation eliminates a ton of problems down the line. We sometimes use Solvy when all else fails. I don't really like it but sometimes it's necessary. Especally on cheap polos - where stitches will inevitably fall in the nooks and crannies.

Increasing the column width does help deal with "sinking" issues as well.

Julie is dead on with her advice.

On real small lettering, 60 weight thread and 65/9 needle is a MUST. There is simply no other way to get really clean looking text when things get tiny. Small needle, thinner thread. True on the density as well, going to 4.5 or 5 can help greatly when working tiny, Seems counter intuitive but it works.

We never slow the machine down that slow - even on hats. Usually run at 1050-1150 on polos. If we are having issues, we sometimes get to 950 but that is very very rare.

Bottom line is, it's easy to make most anything look good on dress shirts/denim/twill - it's much more difficult on polos. It takes tweaking and patience. We usually have a different sew file for every different kind of fabric as each requires different adjustments.

[Juli in Kona]

For polos and T's I turn the shirt inside out, lay it down on the table. I take a precut (love precut) stabilizer, spray with 505 and put that onto the shirt. Then turn the shirt right side out and hoop. That way the shirt isn't being stretched. If the fabric gets the least little bit stretched, it will pucker!

Juli in Kona

[Nick Sam]

Hi again Juli,

The smaller needle made all the difference. Was using 75/11 then after your suggestion, tried 65/9. Thanks so very, very much.
sincerely,
Deb ... yippee!!!

[Nick Sam]

John and Juli,
I feel like I have the 'doctor by the ear' with you two helping me soooo late at night...THANKS! The smaller needle did help...and soo much you advised told me I was doing some things right...and need to change some things. I had started making separate files for knits and wovens...but wondered if I was being fanatical....so very nice to have your help. Again, thank you. Hope I can sometime return the favor.

happy dreams!
Deb

[Juli in Kona]

When I went to the ISS in Jan I want to a seminar on small lettering. The two moderators had the most incredible samples. They showed us a 1" high design of two horses with riders that was awesome. All the outlines was done with the 60# thread and #9 needle.

Juli in Kona

[Steve]

Also try using solvy on top.

[GCEMBROIDERY]

I have never tried it but I wondered if I use a 65/9 needle can I still use 40 weight thread. I need to order some but since I don't will it work, or will I defeat the purpose of the smaller needle?

[Barbara Bunker]

You can try the 65/9, but those needles work best with 60 wt thread.

Barb

[Juli in Kona]

IMO, the 65/9 work well (no thread breaks, etc) only with the 60# thread. However, the 70/10 needles do work well with the 40# thread and you will notice a big difference in the quality of the letters. Try the #10 needles before you buy the 60# thread.

Juli in Kona

[GCEMBROIDERY]

Thanks for all your advise, it is well recieved.