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  • Knit Beanie

    I'm going to put a logo on Knit Beanies with a cuff. Since it has a cuff, do I use cut-a-way backing? I know I will use solvy on top.
    When hooping, should I strecht the beanie?
    Any help is appreciated.

  • #2
    I do beanies now with the speedclamp system.
    I have a 3" roll of TEARAWAY backing on one side of my amaya, balanced on the closed waste basket.
    I cut strips of solvy 3" wide and as long as I can off the sheets or take a roll of solvy and cut it into 4' x 3" strips.
    I set the backing under the clamp hoop and use a small wedge paper clamp to hold it on the right (feeding it off the roll on the left).
    I turn the beanie inside out, and slide it under the top clamp 'hoop' while I hold the solvy strip across it. Pull the clamp down, reach underneath and remove the little clamp holding the backing, trace the design to make it lines up-and sew it.
    When it's done, I pull the hat off, and tear off the solvy but leave the 'extra' from around the design. Pull the tearaway backing off, and then slide that back onto the speedclamp and clamp it.
    Slide another hat one, and this time I have the excess solvy to grip on the right edge-instead of wasting a couple inches. While it's sewing, I take the first one and stretch the design (cuff) and most of the tearaway backing will fall right out. The rest of it you can pick out fast-stretching it pulls it away from the bobbin thread!

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    • #3
      I just hoop it with the 4.65 hoop, using tearaway backing and solvy. There probably is a better way, like above, but I am stubborn.

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      • #4
        Is the speed clamp the same thing as the slimline clamp?
        Barbara

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        • #5
          I use the 15cm hoop and either cutaway or tearaway depending on how loose the knit is on the beanie and solvy.
          Aaron Sargent<br />Pegboard<br />541-727-1440

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          • #6
            I do beanies and use solvy with a cutaway backing.I use the slimline hoop,grab the solvy,beanie and backing all together and slide it in the hoop as 1 piece. Has worked o.k. so far.

            Curtis

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            • #7
              That's so very helpful everyone. What about the stretch. Do I stretch it at all when hooping?
              I have both hooping options available.

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              • #8
                When I slide the beanie into the clamp system, I very slightly spread it open. Not enough to 'stretch' it but just to open the ribbing a bit. As I bring the clamp down, before I snap it shut-I pull the 'top' of the beanie apart to make the ribbing appear straight/parallel-since it tapers as it goes up to the top. This makes sure the logo and lettering doesn't 'bend' once it gets taken off the clamp. With the solvy, I do not need tons of excess underlayment, I use pretty much the same digitized logo I'd have for a shirt pocket area-but I change density for lettering and tight fill areas. Lettering I bump to 6.5 minimum, sometimes up to 7.5 or 8 after the first test. Otherwise you get tight, rigid skinny letters.
                If someone wants a 'perfect' and detailed design-I suggest we just order patches and sew them on. Only so (sew!) much you can do on a thick but open weave like beanies!

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                • #9
                  On beanies and all fleece, I lay down a very light grid the same color as the fabric in the background first. My density is way up to about 1.30, so it doesn't add a tremendous amount of stitches. But it does lay the fabric down and makes the logo pop and I don't even need solvy. Debbie in Indiana
                  Debbie Rinehart<br />Deb\'z-N-Stitches

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                  • #10
                    Thank you all so very much! This website is a great tool to have!!

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