Pucker, Pucker ,Pucker

[mudslinger]

It seem know matter what I do , the material always puckers. Tried different types of backing to playing with the density , At this rate I will not have any hair by the weekend. Dakota collectable or my own designs ,I always get the same thing. Pucker,Pucker,pucker.Any help would be appreciated
Joe

[signman]

Give us some more details...what type of material, what was your density settings on the larger areas, what size hoop and what size image...what type of backing and how many pieces....
need some more info so we can compare notes and see what it might be!

Roland

[mudslinger]

Well this time around we are try to use
Loose knit material-96%cotton and 4%spandex
Density on large areas- 4.0
Density on small areas- 4.5
stitch- fill 4
hoop- 18 cm
design size 5.5"x3"
Backing - 1 pc. 2.0 cutaway

would like to also put on a 50/50 t-shirt also and lightweight bag but dont want to waste the items because they just go to the trash can.
Joe

[Image Embroidery]

How large are your areas of fill and what is the stitch length in those areas? Underlay?

LuAnn

[Image Embroidery]

I have a few minutes this morning, if you want to shoot the design over to me I will take a look at it and see it there is anything obvious that can help you out.
[email protected]
LuAnn

[mudslinger]

when I watch the design sewing out I see the fabric being pushed

[signman]

Is your presser foot down far enough to hold the fabric down to the needle plate?

[Body Cover]

Ok mudslinger, please don't take offense but there are some newbies here that make some mistakes that we may laugh at but it's best to ask and eliminate the variables.

Are you hooping the backing in with the garment or sliding it underneath once it's on the machine? Hooping with the fabric is the correct way but I have heard of many newbies doing it the other way, best ot find out instead of assume.

Thanks
Ron

[mudslinger]

Yes the presser foot is adjusted and the material is hooped with the backing material

[The Embroidery Authority - OLD]

Have you stretched the fabric after it was hooped prior to sewing?
Is your bobbin tension too tight?
Are you using Auto Acti-feed?
Have you tried two layers of cut a way backing?

Ed

[oldkush]

Joe

Not sure if you have resolved your puckering problem but would like to add some comments.

Sorry this is long but it covers a lot of ground.

Generally, factors to consider when solving a puckering problem are 1) the design 2) stabilization 3) hooping 4) thread tensions 5) the material being stitched

I don't know your design or anything else about the material other than it is a cotton / spandex blend.

DESIGN
Many times, designs we stitch are simply too dense. In your case, I think a density of 4.0 may be too high for the weight/type of material you are stitching. A quality digitized design should produce a stitchout which compliments and flows with the garment .... not protect it like a layer of armor.

Insufficient or improper underlay stitching can also lead to puckering. Underlay stitches serve a number of purposes and one of them is to attach the material being stitched to the stabilizer before the actual top stitching begins. This helps to control some of the “push - pull” effect which will occur during stitching. Depending on your design, you may find it helpful to run some initial tack down stitches before the actual design stitching begins.

Long stitch lengths tend to apply more “pull” to the material being stitched than short ones. Sometimes puckering can be reduced or eliminated by using shorter stitch lengths. For example, try reducing 4 mm long stitches to 2 or 3 mm.

Stitch direction can also contribute to puckering. Designs which have the majority of fill stitches running in the same direction or those that do not take into account the bias of the material being stitched, can produce puckering. Often it can be an advantage to vary stitch directions from one fill area to another. Also, try running stitch direction at an angle to the bias of the material.

Improper pathing can cause puckering. Stitching the outside areas of the design first and working towards the inside can result in the material being “pushed up” in the center. Generally, it is best to have a design stitch from the center - out [as much as possible].

STABILIZATION
I see you are using a 2oz cut-away and that should be a good choice.

As a general comment on stabilizers, stitching without sufficient or proper stabilization can produce puckering [especially in lighter and/or problem materials]. As a general rule in embroidery, a quality 2 - 3 oz. cut-away is the best choice for most jobs because not only does the cut-away offer the best support during stitching, it also continues this support for the life of the garment. Specialty stabilizers [tear-aways, mesh, water solubles, etc.] have their place but should be used only when the job warrants it.

A common mistake that some embroiderers make, is to try and use stabilization as a means of correcting puckering problems which are caused by something else [like poor design, improper hooping, etc]. When puckering occurs, remedy the cause ... do not try to "band-aid" the problem through stabilization.

Because you are stitching a spandex blend, it may help to apply your cut-away to the back of your material with a spray adhesive before hooping. This will help limit material movement during stitching .... but do not use as a means to correct deficiencies in quality of design, hooping techniques, etc.

HOOPING
For all embroidery, always use the smallest size hoop possible. Using a large hoop for a small design can lead to excessive movement and shifting of material .... which in turn can result in puckering. When hooping, the material / stabilizer should be taunt [but not stretched] in the hoop.

Also, round hoops tend to offer more uniform "holding power" than square hoops.

THREAD TENSIONS
I do not have an Amaya so my knowledge of thread tensioning when using your machine is limited .... others here are better suited to help you there.

However as a general comment, any embroidery machine with excessively high thread tensions can cause unnecessary “pull” on the material being stitched, which in turn can contribute to puckering.

All proper thread tensions start with a properly tensioned, smooth, consistent running bobbin ... this is very important regardless of which embroidery machine is used. Once the bobbin is properly set, then top thread tensions should be set accordingly.

MATERIAL BEING STITCHED
Some materials like nylon, spandex blends, silk, and light knits simply tend to be more prone to puckering than heavier, more stable ones like denim, fleece, heavy cotton, etc. When working with these more problematic materials, the embroiderer will have to do all that they can to eliminate the potential for puckering. Proper editing of designs, good stabilization, good hooping practices and avoiding overly tight thread tensions all contribute to reduced puckering problems.

Also, some materials are limited in the size and/or number of stitches they will tolerate before causing problems ... sometimes an embroiderer may have to "rethink" his design options when stitching on lighter / problematic materials.

In your case, it is also possible that the 5.5" x 3" design is simply too large and stitch intensive for the weight and type of material you are working with. Have you considered using a smaller design with much less stitches ?

Good luck

Bob

[mudslinger]

Hay bob thanks for all the great info , when applying your suggestions puckering problem has been corrected , once again thank you all for all of the great advise
Joe

[oldkush]

You are welcome Joe. Have a great weekend.

Bob