Floor mats

[Alicante]

Thanks for the comments. I have made some adjustments and now have a completed test design that I am happy with.

Big improvement over first test sewout:

Only one thread break because of fraying.

Remaining issue: Constant stops for false bobbin thread breaks.

I checked the bobbin holder, cleaned it for possible thread or lint, made no difference. I checked tension and bobbin side stitching.
Finally I decided to ignore it and restarted the machine after each false bobbin thread break until it finished the design. The underside, that is the bobbin thread side looks normal.

The test design, topside, looks good.

Here are the new settings I used:
Super Solvy topping, held lightly with pins on strands of 3/8in pile
Hooped two pieces of cutaway backing 2oz.
Carpet held in place on hoop with pins around hoop edge.
Density: 0.4
Primary underlay: Standard
Secondary: none
Fill: #4
Actifeed: 35 Manual
Speed:350
Now if I could just get rid of the false bobbin thread breaks, I'd be in business. [img]tongue.gif[/img]

[signman]

Here's something that might help the false bobbin greaks...see the silver tube where the thread goes down, around, and back up to the arm again? It will spin...just lightly run a finger across one end to 'spin' it half a turn or so.
Inside is some sort of sensor that checks the thread as it goes past...tech never did tell me exactly how...but once in awhile just spin the tube...and false breaks go away!
Maybe it is static electricity and you are grounding it out...I don't know...it works!
Also, have you tried magnetic bobbins? They help for false breaks-keeps a better tension on the thread.
Roland

[signman]

greaks? Gremlins and breaks mating...
oops!

[HERB]

If you are comfortable that the bobbin breaks are false I would turn off the bobbin detect for this project.

[Alicante]

I was wondering if the bobbin detection could be turned off temporarily. Thanks, HERB

And I'll give that tube a spin, signman.

[Rod or Sharon]

All.....

Be gentle while rotating that "silver tube." This is the thread break sensor. Do not "spin" this tube, just gently rotate it back and forth.

Inside of this tube, at both ends, is a "very' small rubber ball bearing that rides against the inside wall of the tube and sits in a depression made to retain it's position.

By spinning the tube, you risk rotating the rubber ball bearing out of its socket and now you do have another problem to deal with....just as information...

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer

[Rod or Sharon]

Dee,

I think the reason why you are experiencing the false bobbin breaks in the first place is because of a combination of your settings. Speed 350 and manual acti-feed at 35. This is not allowing the thread to be held tightly enough against that "silver tube" , the thread break sensor.

The sensor works because of a static electric charge being generated from the thread rotating back and forth across the surface of it. If the thread becomes "loose", and the contact of thread to tube becomes broken, a false thread or bobbin break will occur. Bobbin tension too loose, can also cause this problem.....

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer

[Barbara Bunker]

Oh, trust me, you don't want to permanently turn off the bobbin detection. I kept getting false bobbin-out messages so turned it off. I thought I kept pretty good track of bobbin usage until one day I ruined something. The other day I attempting to use rayon thread (because I liked the color) in one of my needles and the thread kept breaking. I changed the needle and then tried another brand of rayon thread; same thing. Finally, I changed the needle once more, changed to poly, and used a new bobbin case. Voila! No more bobbin-break messages.

Barb

[Rod or Sharon]

All...

About what I posted on the operation of the thread break sensor....actually it does not operate off of a static charge from thread running over the surface....it is more related to pressure on crystals located at either end of the thread sensor tube. As the takeup lever travels to it's upper most position, it pulls the thread tight on the tube and the computer senses the pressure changes and reacts acordingly to either increase or reduce the amount of thread being fed...

I just had a conversation with Hugo about this and from him learned just a bit more about the actual workings of this sensitive piece of equipment...thanks Hugo...

Static can affect the operation of the thread break sensor but is not what makes it function....just wanted to clarify my original post....

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer

[signman]

Rod..thanks for mentioning the static...it really does affect some of the sensors. Brian (our NH tech) demonstrated a quick way to check for static electricity-by cutting a 12" or so length of thread-hold it between 2 fingers, and move it towards the needle bank. When you see it swing towards the needle bar-start pulling it away...he had it straight out! Said we had way too much static.
I had to double check my outlets and the ground wire to clean it up. On my plotters, I made up a 'ground' cord with just green coated 12g. wire on the 'ground' post of a 3 prong plug. This is plugged into the grounded outlet, other end is striped and tightened under a ground screw on the plotters. No more static anywhere now!
(and the ground wire, etc. was actually done by an electrician I had in here one day-safer than 'do it yourself'...don't want someone getting zapped on my account).
So yes, static does make a difference...

[Alicante]

Hi all,
I didn't spin the silver rod. It wouldn't hardly move anyway.
I did do the sewout with the bobbin detection off. This was a new test sewout just to see how it sewed
I set the setting high, 35, because of the high pile carpet and have also experimented down to 20 but still got false bobbin breaks and I could see some color thread out the back so left it at 35.

BTW, I only get the false bobbin thread breaks while doing this project.

Anyway, I have finished a good sewout of the logo.
The stitch density is just enough at 0.4, but the carpet backing is rather stiff and more density may cause thread break like I had in the first sewout.
I am leaving it and calling it good for a quote to the customer.

If anybody is interested in the final settings I used to embroider on home carpeting, here they are:
Super Solvy topping, held lightly with pins on strands of pile
Hooped two pieces of cutaway backing 2oz.
Carpet held in place on hoop with pins around hoop edge.
Density: 0.4
Primary underlay: Standard
Secondary: none
Fill: #4
Actifeed: 35 Manual
Speed: 550
Bobbin thread break detection: Off.
Thread break detection: On

Thanks for all the input, everybody.

That's really cool how the detector works in that silver bar.

[Juli in Kona]

What is going to keep the thread from sinking down into the carpet after it has been finished. When the solvy desolves there will be nothing left. I'd add another layer of underlay and maybe even consider using tulle if the design was more or less solid. Wouldn't work too well with just lettering.

Juli in Kona

[Big Dog]

Dee, thanks for all the great info on your experience embroidering on carpet. That will be my next challenge as well, I have a customer looking for a carpet mat for the cabin on his boat. I get a feeling I'll be testing on a few carpet scraps for this job.
If anybody else has embroidered on home type carpet, all the info you can offer would be great.