Back of Hats

[Digital Stitch]

I did a search of the forum, but I'm still not sure the best way to hoop for sewing on the back of caps.

We have tried several sizes of the round hoops and each time, the cap just "pops" right out of the hoop -- no matter how tight we set the retainer ring. We are working over a corner of a table and trying to pull the cap as flat as possible. We end up only being able to fill the hoop 50% with the hat.

Our ultimate goal is to be able to sew a name above the rear opening of the cap--trying to match the curve of the opening.

Should we be using our cap frame instead of the round hoops? Is there a slimline bracket that would work slick for this?

THANKS!

[TinaK]

We do back of the hats using the 12cm round frame. We only are able to hoop about half the hat and we dont use stabilizer for the back.

If you have the 12cm hoopmaster it makes hooping the backs so much easier and faster.

You do have to be careful once you get it hooped not to pop the hoop off but it does work...

Here is Hoopmaster's video on hooping the back of the hats:
http://www.hoopmaster.com/videos/fla.../cap-back.html

Good Luck!

[Just Sew It]

I agree with Tina, the 4" hoop is what I use for the hat backs. I have the All-In-One with the sleeve arm I use to place the hoop on, but have used the corner of the table too. Ha! Just be sure the hoop is small enough not to have to hoop the fastner straps or bill seam. They will make the cap pop off. I keep the lettering small and as short as possible. (Except for a car dealer who wants Lincoln-Mercury-Toyota-Dodge-Chrysler-Jeep and Ford on the back!)

[signman]

Holy cow batman...what a lot of info for a little area! Don't you just love customers that think we are miracle workers? I'd definitely like to know what font you used and the settings...
Here's a hint for the hat hooping-I know it's been posted over and over so I am NOT taking credit for it but just passing it on again...
take your adhesive backing and cut it into long 3/4" strips. Start on one side of the tightener screw on the 'outside' hoop and do a diagonal 'candy cane' stripe, no overlap but as close as you can get, and go all the way around the hoop. Add more strips as you need. I usually work with an 18" piece to make it easy. Then do the same on your 'inside' (top) hoop but you can get away with just a 1/2" strip evenly around the outside only-so when you 'hoop' a hat or shirt, the backing gives you some real 'grab' so nothing slips. You will have to replace it once in awhile as it wears off, but it also prevents a lot of hoop 'burn' on shiney fabric. You'll see an instant difference in how the hoop stays in place and doesn't 'pop' apart. We also will set the hoop in place, and then reach under and snug up the adjustment screw to tighten it more. Before we hoop the next item, just loosen it one turn or so-and nothing 'pops' apart any more.
Give it a try on one hoop and see if it helps you.
There was a good writeup on how to set the 'curve' of your lettering to match the 'ponytail' opening on the back of your hat so you should find that info using the 'search' here.
Roland

[TravisH]

I remember at our training Nate said you can use a pocket clamp for this application. You may have to slow your sewing speed.