Hi. I am a new user and new to the industry as well. There is a major learning curve happening here. I am trying to stitch a pattern on the back of a SanMar melton jacket. Any suggestions on reducing the bulging ? I am using cutaway backing and sharp needles. The pattern has 68,000 stitches and is about 10" x 10". Thanks in advance.
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Melton Jacket back
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If you mean the 'letterman' jacket (the only one I find in Sanmar catalog that says 'melton wool') then are you using the port pocket (hidden zipper) or sewing through the whole jacket back?
Here's some things to help...
1) use the zipper, get the hoop inside. One backing-1.5 oz.
2) set up design to stitch around the whole image if possible to tie it down to the backing.
3) sew from 'center' of design OUT, if you have large filled areas, set them up to start from the 'middle' and go 'out' to the edge either side to side or middle to top, middle to bottom.
4) in the worst bulge areas, set up an extra 'underlayment' -a crisscross or diagonal pattern that is wide open-density of 50-60-to tie all the material down evenly in those areas.
Set your presser foot up so it just barely touches-don't let it 'crush' the material. The more it pushes down, the tighter your thread gets-the tighter the thread, the more the 'bulge'.
What's happening is excess material (insulation under it, if you don't use the port pocket) or the thick weave-is being pushed ahead of the presser foot as it sews and it has to go somewhere. Eventually it can't be pushed ahead anymore and bingo-there's your bulge. So figure out where it is and in that area-split the fill to go 'center-out' and/or add extra underlayment first to flatten it out. Won't take a few tests and you'll have it down.
If you don't know about the 'port pocket' in the Sanmar jackets-look for the hidden zipper, usually has a 'port' tag on it. That's made to open up the hem so you can slide your hoop, backing, etc. in there and also get the 'nose' snout of your amaya inside it-so NONE of the backing, bobbin, etc. shows on the inside of the jacket.
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