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Logo on dry-wick performance knit

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  • Logo on dry-wick performance knit

    I have a challenge- a client wants his logo (dark green with SMALL lettering) embroidered left chest on several (of his) very thin performance knit shirts in black.

    Several problems- the logo wont show on black unless I outline in some lighter color.The small lettering will be about .2". The fabric stretches A LOT.

    Is this possible? I was going to try (on some scrap fabric) using several layers of sheer backing with adhesive spray, a rectangle fill with a light color, and then the logo on top? 65/9 needle and solvy.

    Or could I do the embroidery on a white stretch fabric and then apply as an applique???

    I think I am doomed...I think I will get a bunch of business from him if I can do this well....Or I will ruin his shirts..... HELP!

  • #2
    I run into this all the time-just last week was 'burgundy' and light tan logo. Client wanted tote bags and I found some 'red' (Sanmar) that are actually burgundy when they arrived. Since the thread she picked was identical to the bag, I suggested we do the logo in the light tan (background of the business cards) and a 'house' logo in black so it wouldn't stand out as much. She loved it and ordered more. In screenprinting-dark green on black shirts, black on navy blue, etc. Customers are as dumb as bricks until you actually SHOW them a sample that really sucks. Then convince them to do a 'reverse'-use the color normally used as a background or outline as the main lettering copy. Since it is already one of 'their' colors, they should go for it.
    In your case, no way can you do an outline for lettering that small-and adding a rectangle fill will triple the thread count AND the RETAIL COST to the customer. So somehow you need to get him to change the colors-like it or not. If the logo is large enough, just run a 'normal' walk stitch, 15 pt around the edge of it. A satin stitch would be way too much and also make a pucker. Do the lettering in the same color. Instead of white, try a light light green or something 'compatible' with it. In screenprinting-I would take white ink and blend in a touch of the normal green or brown, whatever it should have been-and end up with almost a 'shadow' of that color and they love it.

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    • #3
      Signman, thanks for the tips, HOWEVER, Gini's main concern was with the fabric, not the colors. I too am having a terrible time getting this performance fabric to sew cleanly. Can anyone provide suggestions? I cannot find one post with a response to this question. Thanks.
      Geoffrey Meyer<br />Grace by Design, LLC

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      • #4
        We have been using the following on dry mesh and are having good results.
        light colored shirts
        Nylon mesh-if from Melco it has a stretch to it so use two layers of nylon mesh layed opposite of each other, meaning turn on so it has more stability. Use a piece of tear away under the mesh.
        If you have diagonal mesh (newer version of nylon mesh) us one layer with the tear away.
        dark shirts-
        having looked at garments in retail stores, they have two layers of cutaway under their logos.
        All of these have been stitched with the solvy on top.
        Good luck.
        Margaret
        Wishes In Stitches Embroidery<br />4502 W. Buffalo Street<br />Chandler, Arizona 85226<br />480-216-3163

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        • #5
          I have had very good results by using a cut away next to the shirt and a tear away behind that. Because the fabric is slick and stretchy I use a little (stress little) 505 adhesive to keep the fabric from pushing. If you wanted to replace the cut away with a mesh for the thinner and light colored shirts it works also.

          Steve I.
          Trinity Embroidery
          Steve I.<br />Trinity Emb

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