low profile unstructured hats

[TinaK]

Ok, I need all the help I can get on this one as I am totally stumped on why this is not sewing out very well.
I am sewing on a low profile unstructured hat and I have it hooped nice and tight looks good on the frame and I go and sew it out and look at it and it is not straight. I can usually whip hats out like nothing flat but for some reason these are giving me grief. Any help anyone can give me I would greatly appreciate it...

[signman]

What are you using for backing? I use the Sanmar unstructured all the time and it took awhile to get a system down pat for them.
And which hat hoop (CCF or WACF) are you using? I don't even use the WACF anymore-went back to all CCF.
My designs are set up to sew from the bottom (brim edge) up to the top (button or peak) so that material doesn't bunch up if you sew the other direction. Also, you are very limited on the 'height' of the design-1 3/4" is really about all you want to use and I find have to stay 1/2" or more above the brim edge. The 'wider' the top of the logo, the less 'height' you can use so watch the designs. A logo that is 3" wide for example, I can't go over 1 1/2" high. Whenever possible I sew from 'center out' and if there is a logo with lettering around it, I sew the any bottom line of lettering, then the logo, then the lettering arc or whatever around the top-and do that from 'center' out. Density is a big part on these hats-too tight and it pulls the material in (bunching) and that starts to pull the face of the hat out of 'square' so you end up at a tilt when you look at the finished job.
Stiff, stiff backing is best and really hold the face 'flat' and tight when snapping the clamp on the hoop (CCF) so it really stays in place. I hate hats but Aaron and Herb and Rod really gave me some great tips on doing them that made a huge difference. I can do them now and live with them but still hate them! LOL...

[TinaK]

Ok, using the WACF frame setup and my design is about 1 3/4" high but 4" wide. The logo is a cell tower in the middle with the lettering on both sides of the tower. Got it sewing center out etc etc etc...I am getting alot of false bobbin breaks as I have my tension set on standard 8 so I think I will try lowering the number and see if it runs more smoothly....I am using regular hat backing that I got from Melco.

I loved doing hats until these...LOL

[signman]

Since we got the program update with the 'auto' tension setting, we haven't used 'standard' or manual setting since.
Try it on 'auto' and see what happens-you may be surprised.
Also, try one with 'double' backing to see if that stiffens it up.
I'd also do the lettering first to tie the hat down, and the tower
last...since by then the hat will be secure to the backing.
If you see 'bunching' in the middle before it sews the tower you will know the lettering is pulling the fabric towards the center. If that happens, do the tower first.

Roland

[TinaK]

Ok, will try the lettering first to see if that helps...did the double backing and the auto tension and it did help a bit. What an expensive way to learn how to do these hats...Ugh!

Thanks for your help on this Roland!