Beanie Stripes

[TinaK]

Ok, I am embroidering a logo on skull caps that have stripes around the edges and even though my logo is straight it looks off because of the stripes going around the cap. How can I adjust the logo or should I adjust the logo so it doesn't look off?

Thanks!

[signman]

A skull cap is the 'biker' or 'welder' type of cloth cap-a beanie is the knit pullover 'ski' cap. Which one are you using?
On the beanies-chances are when you hoop the hat (I use the speedframe clamp) it is stretching out and the line ends up 'curved' because the rest of the area isn't stretching the same. Look at the ribs on the material before you tighten the clamp arm-and 'pull' the sides out to make the ribs straight by looking at the sides of the clamp frame. That will help line up your logo. Otherwise, yes, if you can adjust the logo do it.
I learned way back on decaling and printing ball caps-the worst logos to do are the ones with straight horizontal lines-because any 'tilt' to the image show up dramatically.

[TinaK]

Ok, I am doing a skull cap Sanmar number CP93 oxford/black with fast frames. I used a iron on no show mesh on the back to stabilize it lined up the bottom of the cap with a straight line on the frame so there is no distortion just the sag in the line of the hat...if that makes sense!

Thinking out load here but let me know if you think I am off as this the first cap I have done and first real digitizing job as well. If I slightly angle the last letters of the first word and slightly angle the first letters of the second word this should give me a uniformed look, correct?

Thanks for your help!

[signman]

I checked the catalog, and by gosh...who ever names the products for sanmar
isn't a biker or welder...LOL...around here a 'skull cap' is cloth, beanie is knit cap.
Sanmar calls it a skull cap!
I have never used the iron on no show mesh-we just have a 4" roll of 1.5 oz. tearaway
next to the speedframe, and feed it through and use a small clamp to hold it on one side.
Hoop the beanie over it, have a matching roll of solvy for the top-and as I bring the clamp
down I remove the little paper clamp underneath. Really speeds it up.
Gave up the fast frames over a year and a half ago.
The tearaway gives it enough structure to hold the image fine. You may have too 'dense'
a logo and that is pulling/bunching up the knit-causing it to 'arc' away from the stripes.
The job I just did had lettering under 1/2" high, that went at 6.5 for density. The fill on the
larger logo design over it was set at 5.5-and it sewed and looked great. No pucker or bunching.
Check your density and fills, don't go overboard with underlayment on knit hats.
If you need to angle the lettering and it works, go for it-sometimes whatever works, works!
Just remember to save your ORIGINAL layout and make a 'copy' with number 2 or something
after it and make your changes there-in case you need to sew the same thing on something else.
No going backwards after you have made changes and saved it...
If you can use a tearaway instead of the iron on-you will save a ton of time-time is money!

Good luck.

Still laughing about calling a beanie a skull cap...oh, the grief I'd get from the biker
dudes if I did that! I deal with 'boarders' too-skate and snow boarders-and to them,
the knit hat is a beanie-not a skull cap! Even if they cover it with skulls and bones-
it's still a beanie!
Maybe it's a regional thing?

Roland

[Mr. Sew & Sew]

Roland - yup, definitely a regional thing. Kinda like your inflatable sheep up there.......

Good tip on the speedframe, though.

[TinaK]

I thought the inflatable sheep were only found in Montana and now NH...hmmmm!