Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

small lettering

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • small lettering

    Please Help Me !
    I have had my machine AmayaXT Design Shop Pro+ since May, and I still can't get any small lettering in block or Script about 1/2" to look like anything, I will be mostly doing embroidery on 50/50 T-shirts and Polo Shirts, would you please share your formular with me I have orders and can't seem to get anything to satisfy me,
    the fabric pulls, the thread knots and the lettering is not bold enough it just kinda gets lost in the fabric.any suggested fonts for block and script that are better than others ? what should I use as a backing? I've tried different combinations.
    thanks for your help ! Charlotte
    charlotte

  • #2
    Hi Charlotte...small lettering is a real pain, but 1/2" isn't that bad. I hate 1/4"-working on some now.
    If a 'tech' angel doesn't pop in (Herb, Rod, John, etc.) then here's some fast help...
    check your 'pdf file' on fonts-make sure the lettering style you want is recommended for that size. Set minimum 'width' under the 'column' tab to 10, NO underlayment unless your font page says so. Pull comp-I usually go for 110, and density start at 4.5 and if it gets 'lost' (too tight) go to 4.8, then 5, 5.5, etc. until it looks good. Some lettering you may end up at 6 or 7-don't worry-if it looks good that's what you want.
    Script is the worst for small lettering, but at 1/2" you really aren't that 'small'.
    Hoop up some scrap shirts, 2 pieces of backing-and run a test. Setup 3 or 4 similar fonts for block and script, and try different densities on duplicate words. Run it and see which looks better-then use that setting for default.

    Comment


    • #3
      I should have also told you...50/50 teeshirts are the absolute worst thing to embroider on because the fabric is so thin, uneven, lightweight, pulls, needle holes show, etc. You can easily end up with 3 layers of backing before the sewing looks good-and then you can see the 'patch' of the underlayment. Unless you are going on super heavyweight premium shirts-over 8 oz-the lighter shirts just aren't for embroidery.
      For polo shirts-a good quality 'pique' knit is preferable but use solvy on top to keep the thread up above the weave.
      A 'jersey' knit polo is nothing more than a teeshirt with a collar!

      Roland

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi Charlotte:

        I do alot of t's however not the 50/50 t's but the preshrunk 5.1 oz I believe or maybe 5.5 ounce sorry can't remember exactly.
        I can tell you I use a cut away stabilizer that is either tacky or I spray adhesive it to the shirt so the shirt does not move. No show mesh fusible is ok as well if the design is not over 8000 stitches and then use a top stabilizer to make it really look good and clean.
        Hope this helps!
        Tina K.<br />Embroidery Gals<br /> <a href=\"http://www.embroiderygals.com\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.embroiderygals.com</a> <br /> <a href=\"http://www.bridalgiftspersonalized.com\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.bridalgiftspersonalized.com</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.facebook.com/cruisetoembroiderysuccess\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.facebook.com/cruisetoembroiderysuccess</a>

        Comment


        • #5
          thank you so much for helping me, going to the machine now to try out some of these ideas,
          I love this web site everyone is so nice and helpful.
          Charlotte
          charlotte

          Comment

          Working...
          X