Pant Leg - - - ?

[Guest]

What's the best setup for embroiderying pant legs? I used a FF sleeve frame but when the sewing got down to the bottom of the frame, the frame butted up to the cylindrical throat plate and wasn't fun. Any suggestions?

The design was within the perimeter of the frame and the tracing was fine. The weight of the denim (I think) pulled the frame below the baseline of the throat plate therefore preventing smooth movement at the perimeter area.

Would really appreciate any suggestions from the pros.

[signman]

Same thing happened with the Speed Clamp I use...it ran into the
needle plate before it should have-everything traced fine-but when it got near the edge and should have cleared, 'bang'...right into it.
Good thing I traced first.
All I can figure is the frame setup (from Melco) is off 1/4" or so
for the 'gray line' area to keep the design inside.
And it shouldn't get close enough to hit even with a heavy garment-to me, that's cutting it too close.
So now the first time I set up the speed clamp system for any new design, I do a 'trace' without anything in the clamp-so I can actually see how close it gets to the steel frame and needle plate. Too close, and I shrink the design.

[GF]

Is a Speed Clamp the same as Slim Line or Fast Frame? I've never heard that one before.

[signman]

The speed clamp is not the same as the fast frames (adhesive hold down). The speed clamp has a top 'frame' like a flat hoop-and holds your textile in place with the 'clamping' of the two frames together. Not usable for jacket backs or to get way down a shirt arm or pant leg-there is no place for excess material to go past the clamp frame.
But for doing beanies, totes, polo shirts, etc.-it is fast and slick!

[GF]

This worked great! Sometimes I'm amazing (not really . . . just feeling successful at the moment). I took four toothpicks and duct-taped them to the lower sides, and bottom of the fast frame. When the design got to the lower portion of the frame, it was guided by the toothpicks and stayed above baseline! The duct-tape protected the frame just in case it did come into contact (which it didn't). Cool huh?

[GF]

FYI, the tables that Melco sells for the machines corrects this problem. Much better performance and doesn't look like some hardware store quick fix.

[signman]

Don't know why I didn't add this in my reply earlier...but even with regular hoops some garments (work jackets are the worst) are too heavy for the hoop arms-and pull the hoop/frame down. That's when things start to hit and pull apart.
If you don't have a 'table' to slide under the throat-get all the excess material and 'accordian' fold it to slide under the bobbin area. That will take all the pressure/weight off the frame. For the jackets, just 'bend' them in half to slide it in there. Letting garments hang off the frame is not good-it will bend arms.
Last year (?) someone mentioned a 'table' they built to slide in and hold garments and large stuff-I found I have some sign stock the perfect fit to slide into the 'grooves' of the Amaya stand/table so I'm going to try making one and see if it works and stays put. Will let you know!
Roland