Cap Frame-XT Extended WACF

[laysondesigns]

Help!Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong, or how to use this frame the correct way? I have'nt done very many hats since buying my machine. But now am about to take an order. My problem is that the frame doesn't alway hold the cap in place. I've been to the training class, I've seen the instruction in the user guide. It just seems to be very inconsistent. When it does hold a cap, there seems to be a mark on the bill from rubbing on the backside of the needle guard. Are ther other cap frames that won't leave a mark, be a little more reliable. Am I just doing something wrong?

[Steve]

Unless you are adding embroidery to the side of the cap, I would suggest getting the Conventional Cap Frame (CCF) cap frame from MelcoMart. I think they are around $200 each. You should only need one for now until you start doing lots of caps.

[signman]

Without going into a long detailed explanation, if hooped properly and tight, you can get within 3/4" of the brim using the 'black' hat hoop. Took me awhile but I finally figured it out!
As for the mark on the brim-when the service tech came up he showed me the problem..this hooper does not have a 'brim' holder like the CCF does, but you can order it from Melco and put it on with a pair of pliers and screwdriver. Looks cheesy, using a stretch cord-but IT WORKS! Not a single brim mark since.
Masking tape did help, but he showed me how as the hat brim rubbed-the front of the hat actually moved as it sewed-breaking needles or screwing up detail alignment.
Ordered the parts, problem solved.
Part #12180, $19 when I got it.

[laysondesigns]

Thank you Steve, I will take that into consideration. I take it that you have used both and the CCF is easier to work with. I think I may go in that direction.

Signman, what do you mean by "black hat hoop"? I did end up using painters tape on the bill, removes easier.

[signman]

The CCF frame is called the 'black hoop' because it has the black cover on the 'loop' around the frame. The company that makes them has a different color for the different machines that they fit.
The WACF doesn't have this 'loop' but a totally different hooping method.

[Aaron]

The black and green ones work for Melco. I think it may depend on if you buy them from hooptech or Melco cause I have some of both colors for my Melco machines.

[Steve]

I use the hooptech cap frames but Melco makes one for the Amaya. The part number is 12155 and is $245/each in the catalog I have. If you have a XT machine, double check with Melco that is the right part.
99% of the caps I do fit the CCF. I never liked the WACF but everyone is different.

[laysondesigns]

Thank you all so very much! I will be adding it to my Christmas list.

[J&O Enterprises]

Hi All,

I think I have the hang of sewing with the WACF, raised needle plate, "wings", and using constructed style hats. Once you install the hat into the hoop, you still have to look from the front to make sure the bill and seem look straight to the frame or you can get a crooked sewing results. Otherwise, results good!

However, I am having trouble using the CCF frame on "unconstructed" hats. I have NO problem hooping the hat tightly just like I did with my older (and wider) EMT frame. The difference though is that when I install the CCF hoop into the machine and trace the design, the dragging accross the needle plate cause the hat to pull out some from the barbed grabbers of the frame. This distorts the hat and there is no chance to sew correctly. My theory is that the tighter cirular radius of this frame is "bad", where as the wider/older frame allows for the hat to stay tight in the frame and not drag accross the needle plate area. Just to be clear, do I:
1. Use the wings or take them off?
2. Use the raised needle plate or the standard on?
3. I did use the correct hoop selections in OS to the
4. Or, up to me to find what works best? [img]smile.gif[/img]

Thanks,
Jim

[Just Sew It]

Jim, I have two 2005 Amayas and have always used the WACF on all the hats I do. On unstructured hats, I hoop firmly the band and pull the hat from the back down and clamp the material to the little bars with offset clamps. Hat doesn't move and sews well.

[Rod or Sharon]

Jim,
When using the CCF cap frame, DO NOT use the wings as they will contact the sides of the CCF cap frame during rotation and can lock up and cause Z axis timeout errors or worse. Do, select the CCF hoop designation for this style of frame.

To help stablize the unconstructed caps, try using 2 pieces of stiff tear-a-way backing. Even though I dislike using sticky spray,unless absolutely forced to, some folks have even reverted to using it to tack the backing to the inside of the cap to keep it from moving around whether using the CCF or the WACF. Some use the cardboard stiffener that is already in the cap and just sew right through it. You would be surprised to know just how many people are doing it this way.

As far as the raised needle plate, it's primary purpose was, when using the "wings" to raise the needle plate up to be level with the top of the "wings". So, if you are not using the wings, take it off or leave it on, becomes personal preference. Leaving it off allows you to then adjust the presser foot as tho you were sewing on flats. Leaving it on will require you to raise the presser foot to the highest position and maybe drop a click or two from that position.

[Rod or Sharon]

Jim,
Forgot to mention one thing. If the raised needle plate is left on, without the wings, it can "hang up" on the center seam on the inside of the cap enough to possibly distort parts of te design....
Rod Springer

[TAXTHEAX]

And now a word from one of the newer guys,,, I have had my AMAYA XT for about a month now, (started 2 years ago with a Babylock EMP6). Just started to get into a large order of constructed "fitted" hats and found out a few things. 1) I too was getting the marks on the outer side of the bill due to the bill making contact with the needle bar. I use the new Amaya WACF. To solve this problem I cut a piece of mesh type backing to fit the bill of the cap and lightly spray adheasive on it to tack it to the bill and also make sure that the top bill clamp has a grip on it too. After a few uses there is no need for the spray and will stick by itself. No more marks! 2) The brand of fitted cap I am using has a couple of stitches tacking the side sweat bands to the cap. I am doing a 270 degree design on them. If the stiches are not cut the design will appear as to be sewn uphill on the side pannels. Keep this in mind any time doing anything besides just front designs. Of course underlay and stitching from the middle out is just as imporant. God I love this machine,,,,and this support group!

Embroidery Works by Ralph

[laysondesigns]

Just curious, those of you that have had success with the Amaya WACF, how close to the brim are you able to get a design? I don't want to give up on it all together, but I do like to know that there are other options for me to pursue.

[Just Sew It]

The last order of hats had a big truck and it went down to 3/4" from the seam.