Originally posted by John
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EMT 16 Breaking Needles on caps
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John I went back to my dealer for service and and there was a problem with machine. The new rotary hook on the EMT-16 has a removable blade to cut thread the one on my machine was mission a screw and blade was all loose. I can sew flats hours on end now without no major issues. But still not happy with hats. Thanks again for all your help
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Just adding my experience...... 2.3" tall might be too tall for that style of cap (I don't know the make). If the design gets too high on the cap it'll buckle which'll cause the needle to bend and strike the needle plate. If the design is too low on the cap, the bill might cause the cap to lift creating the same situation. I hope you've figured it out
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Just a fyi on parts of the machine so everyone knows what is actually spoken of, there is the presser foot and needle plate rather than pressure foot and thread plate.
Sharon
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Hi there
I have the EMT16 and will give you some suggestions on how we get our hats to run.
1) Make sure your design sews from bottom up, this is really important if you have lettering at the bottom with your logo.
2) Run your machine at 1000 spm, the V11 software doesn't like it when you go too slow.
3) Make sure your needle is centered in the silver thread plate.
4) When you trace your hat make sure the bill does not touch the back of the machine and push on it. We trace till it just touches (depending on our design. )
5) Make sure your pressure foot isn't pushing up close on the needle when it sews. You might have to push on the pressure foot back a bit.
6) Your backing should be smooth inside the hat when you hoop it and use enough that the hat doesn't move on the hoop.
7) Acti-feed set to auto -- Start at 7 and go up from there if it seems too tight.
Melco also has out now the Bobbin Tension Gauge Item #34746 that gets the tension just right to run the EMT16's. We just got ours and was amazed at how tight our tension was
machine runs great.
Hope this helps
Linda H
Melco Certified Trainer and Technician
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John I just sewed it on flats three layers of backing not one thread break thanks for all the tips. I will await your thoughts on digitizing.
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2.3 inches is a bit tall for most caps. I would make it 1.9 no taller than 2 inches.
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Originally posted by danikasdad View PostHow can I send someone a file? I am not sure what you saying about center out bottom up?
Designs for hats need to be digitized specifically for hats. That means they are to run center out and bottom up when sewn. You digitizer should do this as long as you specify the design is for hats.
And trust me ALL my designs that I get done are quality - paying too much has nothing to do with it - but if you are happy, then great!
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Just click on my address and send as an attachment. This is terribly basic stuff!
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How can I send someone a file? I am not sure what you saying about center out bottom up?
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this guy does a awesome job and logo is 2.3" high with 13000 stitches I don't mind paying for quality digitizing. I don't have a raise needle plate the needle is dead center and I am hooping just like buddy on video but I will try tread feed thing
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Oh, and $75 for a cap design is INSANE. Most designs we send out are $35-40 max.
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Probably isn't the design - but could be...
1) If you are using the raised needle plate (don't know if the emt's come with that) don't bother. I know we had issues with needle breaks when we did.
2) Make sure the needle is centered in the needle plate. Needle down and adjust, then tighten the needle plate screws.
3) Hat hooped properly - If you are using a WACF, see Herb's video here on the site. If it's CCF http://www.melco-service.com/source1/Hooping_a_Cap_on_the_CCF.htm
4) Presser foot - all the way down, 1 or two clicks up.
5) Thread feed - auto - minimum at 3 or 4.
6) Digitizing. Center out, bottom up.
7) 850-950 SPM Speed
8) One or two pieces of tear away backing
Can't tell you the last time we broke a needle on hats except for the first week or so trying to sew out one with the raised needle plate.
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